History of the Maine Coon
The Maine Coon cat is one of the most famous cat breeds in New England and most of the United States. They are the hardiest, furriest and largest cats of all the domesticated cat breeds kept in homes around the Western world. Apart from their good looks and gentle personality, their history is also quite mysterious! Their origins are more folk tale and theory than real proven facts. Some might even say that they are the Maine Coon myths.
As one of the “original native cat-breeds” of the United States, the Maine Coon cat is known for having adapted to the harsh winters and natural wild environment of the state of Maine. The cold and the distances between human settlements in Maine helped the Maine Coon cat breed stay unmixed for hundreds of years. This is mainly due to a small number of other cats in the area and a first-hand experience of Darwin’s theory of survival of the fittest. Unfortunately though, not much is known about how they got there in the first place.
There are a few theories, some more fairy tale than fact. Others more like science fiction due to genetic improbability. Still, none of the theories have been proven and their mysterious origins have become part of the Maine Coon’s uncanny feline charm.
Here are some of the well-known theories as to the origins of the Maine Coon cat. Which story you tell about your cat, is up to you. Nonetheless, an undeniable fact about the Maine Coon cat is that it’s the state animal of Maine and that’s pretty impressive in it itself.
Cat + Wild animal Theory
One of the most common theories about the Maine Coon cats’ origin is that it is a hybrid. There are two general strains to this origin theory. The first is that a domesticated cat cross-bred with a raccoon. The other is that a domesticated cat cross-bred with a bobcat.
Of the first theory (cat+raccoon) there is little possibility since cats and raccoons are completely different species and cannot breed with each other. The second theory of a cat breeding with a bobcat might sound more probable but actually isn’t. Cats and bobcats are both from the Felidae family but are not the same species. Bobcats are a lynx species, meaning they cannot breed with normal cats.
Even if the hybrid theory is genetically and scientifically impossible, when it comes to looks and personality, things can get confusing. People from Maine will tell you that the theory of the Maine Coon being half raccoon or half bobcat is an old wives tale. Similarities in fur color and thickness, the love of water, the lynx-like ears, it all makes one wonder.
The cat + raccoon theory also has a bit of influence in the name of the Maine Coon. Before it was called the Maine Coon, it was simply called “Maine cat.” The addition of the second word, Coon, could be from the abbreviation for raccoon, coon, or as we will see further on, from Captain Charles Coon.
This improbable theory has been around for hundreds of years but has no proof whatsoever.
Ship Cats Theory
The strongest theory about the Maine Coon cats’ origin is that they are descendants of European ship cats. Ship captains would usually keep cats onboard to keep control of the mice and rats that could wreak havoc on the cargo and the inner workings of the ship. Some captains were so close to their long-haired cats that the kittens were very well taken care of and looked after. Some seafaring families kept close watch over their cat families, usually maintaining the color strain for generations.
Two hundred years ago, the state of Maine was a common harbor for ships to anchor and get repairs, and for sailors to take a break on land. Not only that, Maine was also very popular with ship-building companies. Many sea-faring families settled in the coastal towns of Maine, bringing along their precious cats. Some captains also retired in the area, bringing along their loved feline families.
These cats might have been one of a few long-haired breeds of European cats. The most mentioned in relation to this theory are the long-haired Angora breeds. It is believed that these sailor cats would then become the much loved Maine Coon. People always say that Maine Coons are great mousers, giving even more weight to this theory.
Captain Charles Coon And His Cat
Of the ship cat theories, a particular story seems to stand out from the rest. Back in the 1800’s, there was a ship Captain by the name of Charles Coon. Even if his name is an extremely convenient match for the Maine Coon cat origin story, there is no proof that it’s not just another folk tale. The story of Captain’s Charles Coon and his long-haired cats could be the story of any sea captain but this is a memorable one.
When Captain Charles Coon would come to anchor in the ports along the New England coast, including Maine, his cats would come on land as well. As the story goes, they bred with the local feral cats and when long haired kittens started showing up in litters all over the coast, they were called Coon’s Cats because they looked so much like the Captain’s own cats.
Is the Captain’s name a coincidence or did it really give the cat breed its name? Nobody is completely sure.
Viking Cats
There is another variable to the ship cats theory of British and French boats bringing long-haired cats aboard for mouse control and then leaving them behind in Maine. Some Maine Coon theorists believe that these furry creatures are descendants of the Norwegian Forest Cats. These would have made their way to the United States aboard Scandinavian ships for company and mouse control. Nordic explorers arrived in the US long before other Europeans did and so if this theory were true, Maine Coon cats would be a much older native species.
Even if all the ship cat theories sound highly probable, there is no concrete proof of any of them and the stories have become more folk tales than ‘real origin’ stories. It really depends on what part of New England you are in. Each town will have their own Maine Coon cat origin story, most probably a version of one of the ones we mention here.
Marie Antoinette And Her Angora Cats
The most colorful and interesting of all the Maine Coon cat origin myths is the one that has to do with guillotines, huge wigs and a bit of cake.
In the time of French royalty, and Marie Antoinette’s extravagant tenure at Versailles, the Turkish and Persian Angora cats were a common house pet. Sometimes they were even considered a pest, due to how fast they reproduced and took over the homes. King Louis XVI is said to have used the cats as hunting targets for fun with his friends.
The tale that connects Angora cats to Maine Coon cats is the story of Marie Antoinette’s near escape to the United States. When Marie Antoinette and her family were arrested at Versailles in 1793, her ship captain Samuel Clough, and some of her sympathizers planned an escape to the state of Maine. At the docks, there was an anchored ship which regularly traveled the merchant route between France and Maine. The plan was to get the family on the ship and take them to Maine, and safety.
While Marie Antoinette and her family were kept incarcerated, the ship’s captain and his sailors loaded the ship with royal furniture, royal wallpaper, the fanciest of clothing and according to theorists, quite probably a family of Angora cats. All rescue attempts failed, resulting in the decapitation of Louis XVI and then Marie Antoinette.
When the royal family was executed and dissolved, the ship captained by Samuel Clough, left France in a hurry and sailed to the planned destination in Maine. There, on the coastal town of Wiscasset, the captain’s wife awaited with a large house ready for her royal guests. The huge manor was furnished with all of Marie Antoinette’s regal possessions and opulent decorations. This house still stands and is known as “The Marie-Antoinette House.” It was once a museum but is not a private residence and cannot be visited.
This story of the almost survival of Marie Antoinette and her family is a real proven fact, but what remains a mystery is the presence of the Angora cats on Samuel Clough’s ship. If the Maine Coon cats are descendants of Marie Antoinette’s royal Angora cats, it would make for a nice story, but there is no real documented proof, only speculation.
Polydactyl Maine Coon Cats
A large part of the history of the Maine Coon cat is the polydactyly genetic trait. A polydactyl cat is one that has more than the regular amount of toes on any of their paws. This is a trait that dates back to the first known Maine Coon cats. The trait is also hereditary. Most polydactyl Maine Coon cats will have polydactyl kittens and it can continue for generations.
Having polydactyl paws are not harmful to the cats and are fully functional. Historians believe that this is a trait inherited from ship cats that needed more balance and grip than land cats. This theory goes hand in hand with the origin theory of Maine Coon cats being descendants of ship cats.
The polydactyl trait in Maine Coons is particularly notorious as part of their history because it influenced their appearance and participation in cat shows. Not only that, it has greatly influenced the way in which they are carefully bred by the Maine Coon community.
The Maine Coon Show Cats
The history of fancy Maine Coon cats participating in cat shows was extensively documented by a Mrs. E. R. Pearce, herself an owner of a Maine Coon cat named Captain-Jinks of the Horse-Marines. In fact, this black and white Maine Coon is the first recorded in written literature and is a household name inside Maine Coon communities.
Mrs. Pearce’s detailed records show that in 1878, a dozen Maine Coon cats were entered to compete in a cat show in Boston but did not win. In 1895, a brown tabby Maine Coon owned by a Mrs. E. N. Barker and named Cosey won first place at the large cat show in New York’s Madison-Square Garden. Maine Coons kept making regular appearances at cat shows in Boston and New York and even Chicago, until the more exotic Persian long-haired cats started capturing more attention.
For around 60 years, the Maine Coon breed was kept close to home. Cat owners inherited Maine Coon families and some breeders took care to keep the breed intact. It wasn’t until the 1950’s that the Maine Coon cat re-entered the show circuit. It was at this time that the polydactyl gene started to weigh on the preference of the Main Coons at shows. At first, the cats that carried the trait were not allowed on shows simply due to the aesthetic factor of having extra toes.
It was later, around the 1970’s that polydactyl Maine Coon cats were accepted in shows, protected by the Maine Coon Polydactyl Standard but it was still not widely seen. It was unfortunate, but since cat show breeders were trying to breed Maine Coons without the polydactyl gene, it started to fade out. It wasn’t until the early 2000’s, that Maine Coon cat breeders who had been trying to keep the polydactyl gene intact came to light. Other breeders from around the world have joined them in maintaining the gene for future Maine Coon cat generations.
Your Maine Coon, Their Origin Story
If you own a Maine Coon cat, then you must know by now, that your cat is very special. The history and origins of the Maine Coon cats are so full of mystery and speculation that it makes them that much more intriguing. With lynx-like ears, wide paws and banded tails, these gentle giants can be the real royalty of a human home.
When someone admires your Maine Coon, tell them one of the improbable stories of their origin. Start with the Scandinavian Vikings and the Norwegian forest cats, then finish with Marie Antoinette and her royal Angora cats.
How a native cat breed can carry so much interesting folklore, along with their incomparable charm, is not something to simply brush off their fur when grooming. Maine Coon cats will always carry the secret of their origins to the state of Maine in their extra toes and gentle demeanor.
https://mainecoonexpert.com/the-history-of-the-maine-coon-cat/?fbclid=IwAR0pdm1orwumPT_t_EqLgyp4itHEOkJU0mfZ6Ogfxj0Pe4Y7KTHVrdklpRA
As one of the “original native cat-breeds” of the United States, the Maine Coon cat is known for having adapted to the harsh winters and natural wild environment of the state of Maine. The cold and the distances between human settlements in Maine helped the Maine Coon cat breed stay unmixed for hundreds of years. This is mainly due to a small number of other cats in the area and a first-hand experience of Darwin’s theory of survival of the fittest. Unfortunately though, not much is known about how they got there in the first place.
There are a few theories, some more fairy tale than fact. Others more like science fiction due to genetic improbability. Still, none of the theories have been proven and their mysterious origins have become part of the Maine Coon’s uncanny feline charm.
Here are some of the well-known theories as to the origins of the Maine Coon cat. Which story you tell about your cat, is up to you. Nonetheless, an undeniable fact about the Maine Coon cat is that it’s the state animal of Maine and that’s pretty impressive in it itself.
Cat + Wild animal Theory
One of the most common theories about the Maine Coon cats’ origin is that it is a hybrid. There are two general strains to this origin theory. The first is that a domesticated cat cross-bred with a raccoon. The other is that a domesticated cat cross-bred with a bobcat.
Of the first theory (cat+raccoon) there is little possibility since cats and raccoons are completely different species and cannot breed with each other. The second theory of a cat breeding with a bobcat might sound more probable but actually isn’t. Cats and bobcats are both from the Felidae family but are not the same species. Bobcats are a lynx species, meaning they cannot breed with normal cats.
Even if the hybrid theory is genetically and scientifically impossible, when it comes to looks and personality, things can get confusing. People from Maine will tell you that the theory of the Maine Coon being half raccoon or half bobcat is an old wives tale. Similarities in fur color and thickness, the love of water, the lynx-like ears, it all makes one wonder.
The cat + raccoon theory also has a bit of influence in the name of the Maine Coon. Before it was called the Maine Coon, it was simply called “Maine cat.” The addition of the second word, Coon, could be from the abbreviation for raccoon, coon, or as we will see further on, from Captain Charles Coon.
This improbable theory has been around for hundreds of years but has no proof whatsoever.
Ship Cats Theory
The strongest theory about the Maine Coon cats’ origin is that they are descendants of European ship cats. Ship captains would usually keep cats onboard to keep control of the mice and rats that could wreak havoc on the cargo and the inner workings of the ship. Some captains were so close to their long-haired cats that the kittens were very well taken care of and looked after. Some seafaring families kept close watch over their cat families, usually maintaining the color strain for generations.
Two hundred years ago, the state of Maine was a common harbor for ships to anchor and get repairs, and for sailors to take a break on land. Not only that, Maine was also very popular with ship-building companies. Many sea-faring families settled in the coastal towns of Maine, bringing along their precious cats. Some captains also retired in the area, bringing along their loved feline families.
These cats might have been one of a few long-haired breeds of European cats. The most mentioned in relation to this theory are the long-haired Angora breeds. It is believed that these sailor cats would then become the much loved Maine Coon. People always say that Maine Coons are great mousers, giving even more weight to this theory.
Captain Charles Coon And His Cat
Of the ship cat theories, a particular story seems to stand out from the rest. Back in the 1800’s, there was a ship Captain by the name of Charles Coon. Even if his name is an extremely convenient match for the Maine Coon cat origin story, there is no proof that it’s not just another folk tale. The story of Captain’s Charles Coon and his long-haired cats could be the story of any sea captain but this is a memorable one.
When Captain Charles Coon would come to anchor in the ports along the New England coast, including Maine, his cats would come on land as well. As the story goes, they bred with the local feral cats and when long haired kittens started showing up in litters all over the coast, they were called Coon’s Cats because they looked so much like the Captain’s own cats.
Is the Captain’s name a coincidence or did it really give the cat breed its name? Nobody is completely sure.
Viking Cats
There is another variable to the ship cats theory of British and French boats bringing long-haired cats aboard for mouse control and then leaving them behind in Maine. Some Maine Coon theorists believe that these furry creatures are descendants of the Norwegian Forest Cats. These would have made their way to the United States aboard Scandinavian ships for company and mouse control. Nordic explorers arrived in the US long before other Europeans did and so if this theory were true, Maine Coon cats would be a much older native species.
Even if all the ship cat theories sound highly probable, there is no concrete proof of any of them and the stories have become more folk tales than ‘real origin’ stories. It really depends on what part of New England you are in. Each town will have their own Maine Coon cat origin story, most probably a version of one of the ones we mention here.
Marie Antoinette And Her Angora Cats
The most colorful and interesting of all the Maine Coon cat origin myths is the one that has to do with guillotines, huge wigs and a bit of cake.
In the time of French royalty, and Marie Antoinette’s extravagant tenure at Versailles, the Turkish and Persian Angora cats were a common house pet. Sometimes they were even considered a pest, due to how fast they reproduced and took over the homes. King Louis XVI is said to have used the cats as hunting targets for fun with his friends.
The tale that connects Angora cats to Maine Coon cats is the story of Marie Antoinette’s near escape to the United States. When Marie Antoinette and her family were arrested at Versailles in 1793, her ship captain Samuel Clough, and some of her sympathizers planned an escape to the state of Maine. At the docks, there was an anchored ship which regularly traveled the merchant route between France and Maine. The plan was to get the family on the ship and take them to Maine, and safety.
While Marie Antoinette and her family were kept incarcerated, the ship’s captain and his sailors loaded the ship with royal furniture, royal wallpaper, the fanciest of clothing and according to theorists, quite probably a family of Angora cats. All rescue attempts failed, resulting in the decapitation of Louis XVI and then Marie Antoinette.
When the royal family was executed and dissolved, the ship captained by Samuel Clough, left France in a hurry and sailed to the planned destination in Maine. There, on the coastal town of Wiscasset, the captain’s wife awaited with a large house ready for her royal guests. The huge manor was furnished with all of Marie Antoinette’s regal possessions and opulent decorations. This house still stands and is known as “The Marie-Antoinette House.” It was once a museum but is not a private residence and cannot be visited.
This story of the almost survival of Marie Antoinette and her family is a real proven fact, but what remains a mystery is the presence of the Angora cats on Samuel Clough’s ship. If the Maine Coon cats are descendants of Marie Antoinette’s royal Angora cats, it would make for a nice story, but there is no real documented proof, only speculation.
Polydactyl Maine Coon Cats
A large part of the history of the Maine Coon cat is the polydactyly genetic trait. A polydactyl cat is one that has more than the regular amount of toes on any of their paws. This is a trait that dates back to the first known Maine Coon cats. The trait is also hereditary. Most polydactyl Maine Coon cats will have polydactyl kittens and it can continue for generations.
Having polydactyl paws are not harmful to the cats and are fully functional. Historians believe that this is a trait inherited from ship cats that needed more balance and grip than land cats. This theory goes hand in hand with the origin theory of Maine Coon cats being descendants of ship cats.
The polydactyl trait in Maine Coons is particularly notorious as part of their history because it influenced their appearance and participation in cat shows. Not only that, it has greatly influenced the way in which they are carefully bred by the Maine Coon community.
The Maine Coon Show Cats
The history of fancy Maine Coon cats participating in cat shows was extensively documented by a Mrs. E. R. Pearce, herself an owner of a Maine Coon cat named Captain-Jinks of the Horse-Marines. In fact, this black and white Maine Coon is the first recorded in written literature and is a household name inside Maine Coon communities.
Mrs. Pearce’s detailed records show that in 1878, a dozen Maine Coon cats were entered to compete in a cat show in Boston but did not win. In 1895, a brown tabby Maine Coon owned by a Mrs. E. N. Barker and named Cosey won first place at the large cat show in New York’s Madison-Square Garden. Maine Coons kept making regular appearances at cat shows in Boston and New York and even Chicago, until the more exotic Persian long-haired cats started capturing more attention.
For around 60 years, the Maine Coon breed was kept close to home. Cat owners inherited Maine Coon families and some breeders took care to keep the breed intact. It wasn’t until the 1950’s that the Maine Coon cat re-entered the show circuit. It was at this time that the polydactyl gene started to weigh on the preference of the Main Coons at shows. At first, the cats that carried the trait were not allowed on shows simply due to the aesthetic factor of having extra toes.
It was later, around the 1970’s that polydactyl Maine Coon cats were accepted in shows, protected by the Maine Coon Polydactyl Standard but it was still not widely seen. It was unfortunate, but since cat show breeders were trying to breed Maine Coons without the polydactyl gene, it started to fade out. It wasn’t until the early 2000’s, that Maine Coon cat breeders who had been trying to keep the polydactyl gene intact came to light. Other breeders from around the world have joined them in maintaining the gene for future Maine Coon cat generations.
Your Maine Coon, Their Origin Story
If you own a Maine Coon cat, then you must know by now, that your cat is very special. The history and origins of the Maine Coon cats are so full of mystery and speculation that it makes them that much more intriguing. With lynx-like ears, wide paws and banded tails, these gentle giants can be the real royalty of a human home.
When someone admires your Maine Coon, tell them one of the improbable stories of their origin. Start with the Scandinavian Vikings and the Norwegian forest cats, then finish with Marie Antoinette and her royal Angora cats.
How a native cat breed can carry so much interesting folklore, along with their incomparable charm, is not something to simply brush off their fur when grooming. Maine Coon cats will always carry the secret of their origins to the state of Maine in their extra toes and gentle demeanor.
https://mainecoonexpert.com/the-history-of-the-maine-coon-cat/?fbclid=IwAR0pdm1orwumPT_t_EqLgyp4itHEOkJU0mfZ6Ogfxj0Pe4Y7KTHVrdklpRA
The range of colors of Maine Coon cats
Maine Coon cats come in a wide variety of colors. Some people believe the different colors come with different personality traits but I’m not so sure about this! Whichever color Maine Coon you choose, you will find yourself sharing your world with one of the most sociable and gentle domestic cats in the world.
Maine Coons are revered for being the perfect family cat which is probably why they are also the most popular domestic breed. They are full of character and will provide you with endless hours of joy and entertainment.
Solid Maine Coon coat colors
As you would expect from the name a solid-color Maine Coon cat has fur of just one color with no other patches of other colors to be found. The recognized solid colors of Maine Coon are:
Also listed in some places as a solid color are:
Smoke Maine Coon coat colors
A smoke-colored Maine Coon cat looks like it has fur of just one color on the surface but at the roots, its hair is much lighter than the at the tips.
Here is the range of smoke colors available:
Tabby Maine Coon coat colors
A tabby Maine Coon cat has fur that is mottled or streaked with stripes. Tabbies are one of the most sought-after Maine Coon colors. They are split into the following five categories:
Classic Tabby colors
A classic tabby Maine Coon cat has fur that is mottled or streaked with dark stripes. The classic tabby colors are:
Bi-color Maine Coon Coats
Bi-colored Maine Coon cats are a combination of white and another color. They may or may not have white on their faces but always have white on their bib (chest area), their tummies and all four paws. Here are the range of bi-colors:
Interesting facts (and fictions) about Maine Coon coat colors Genetics
With Maine Coon cats there are a few interesting facts where genetics are concerned. Male kittens always obtain both color genes from their mother.
The male offspring in a litter will always be either the color of the mother or the dilute (less intense) form of her color.
Female kittens will be a combination of both parent’s colors. This makes it easy to predict the colors of kittens to expect from a particular pair of parents.
Paws and noses
Maine Coon cats can have pink or black noses and paw pads, and sometimes a combination.
Eyes
The Maine Coon has beautiful eyes. They are large, round, wide-set and have a slightly oblique setting. Their eye color may be shades of green, gold or amber but there is no relationship between eye color and coat color, except in solid white cats, which may be blue-eyed, amber-eyed, green-eyed or odd-eyed.
Color and PersonalityI have been looking all day and can find no hard evidence that there is a link between color and personality. But some people are convinced that there is. This may be because they have had two Maine Coons of different colors and found their personalities are poles apart. And, of course, different cats can have different personality traits.
https://petskb.com/what-colors-do-maine-coon-cats-come-in/#:~:text=Maine%20Coon%20cats%20come%20in%20many%20colors%20and%20color%20combinations,coat%20colors%20and%20color%20combinations.
Maine Coon cats come in a wide variety of colors. Some people believe the different colors come with different personality traits but I’m not so sure about this! Whichever color Maine Coon you choose, you will find yourself sharing your world with one of the most sociable and gentle domestic cats in the world.
Maine Coons are revered for being the perfect family cat which is probably why they are also the most popular domestic breed. They are full of character and will provide you with endless hours of joy and entertainment.
Solid Maine Coon coat colors
As you would expect from the name a solid-color Maine Coon cat has fur of just one color with no other patches of other colors to be found. The recognized solid colors of Maine Coon are:
- Black
- White
- Red (also referred to as ginger or orange)
- Blue (also referred to as grey)
- Cream
Also listed in some places as a solid color are:
- Tortie
- Blue tortie
Smoke Maine Coon coat colors
A smoke-colored Maine Coon cat looks like it has fur of just one color on the surface but at the roots, its hair is much lighter than the at the tips.
Here is the range of smoke colors available:
- Black smoke
- Blue smoke
- Red smoke
- Cream smoke
- Tortie smoke
- Blue Tortie smoke
Tabby Maine Coon coat colors
A tabby Maine Coon cat has fur that is mottled or streaked with stripes. Tabbies are one of the most sought-after Maine Coon colors. They are split into the following five categories:
Classic Tabby colors
A classic tabby Maine Coon cat has fur that is mottled or streaked with dark stripes. The classic tabby colors are:
- Black Classic Tabby (Brown)
- Blue Classic Tabby
- Red Classic Tabby
- Cream Classic Tabby
- Tortie Classic Tabby
- Blue Tortie Classic Tabby
- Black Mac Tabby (Brown)
- Blue Mac Tabby
- Red Mac Tabby
- Cream Mac Tabby
- Tortie Mac Tabby
- Blue Tortie Mac Tabby
- Black Silver Classic Tabby
- Blue Silver Classic Tabby
- Red Silver Classic Tabby
- Cream Silver Classic Tabby
- Tortie Silver Classic Tabby
- Blue Tortie Silver Classic Tabby
- Black Silver Mac Tabby
- Blue Silver Mac Tabby
- Red Silver Mac Tabby
- Cream Silver Mac Tabby
- Tortie Silver Mac Tabby
- Blue Tortie Silver Mac Tabby
- Black Silver Shaded Tabby
- Blue Silver Shaded Tabby
- Red Silver Shaded Tabby
- Cream Silver Shaded Tabby
- Tortie Silver Shaded Tabby
- Blue Tortie Silver Shaded Tabby
Bi-color Maine Coon Coats
Bi-colored Maine Coon cats are a combination of white and another color. They may or may not have white on their faces but always have white on their bib (chest area), their tummies and all four paws. Here are the range of bi-colors:
- Black and white
- Blue and white
- Red and white
- Cream and white
Interesting facts (and fictions) about Maine Coon coat colors Genetics
With Maine Coon cats there are a few interesting facts where genetics are concerned. Male kittens always obtain both color genes from their mother.
The male offspring in a litter will always be either the color of the mother or the dilute (less intense) form of her color.
Female kittens will be a combination of both parent’s colors. This makes it easy to predict the colors of kittens to expect from a particular pair of parents.
Paws and noses
Maine Coon cats can have pink or black noses and paw pads, and sometimes a combination.
Eyes
The Maine Coon has beautiful eyes. They are large, round, wide-set and have a slightly oblique setting. Their eye color may be shades of green, gold or amber but there is no relationship between eye color and coat color, except in solid white cats, which may be blue-eyed, amber-eyed, green-eyed or odd-eyed.
Color and PersonalityI have been looking all day and can find no hard evidence that there is a link between color and personality. But some people are convinced that there is. This may be because they have had two Maine Coons of different colors and found their personalities are poles apart. And, of course, different cats can have different personality traits.
https://petskb.com/what-colors-do-maine-coon-cats-come-in/#:~:text=Maine%20Coon%20cats%20come%20in%20many%20colors%20and%20color%20combinations,coat%20colors%20and%20color%20combinations.
Colors that our adults can produce at the moment:
Black Smoke
Black
Black with white
Black Silver Tabby
Black Brown Tabby
Black Brown Tabby with White
Black Tortie (female only- mix of black, red, cream)
Black Smoke Tortie (female only)
Black Torbie (female only- Tabby face- mix of black, red, cream)
Blue
Blue with white
Blue Smoke
Blue Tortie (female only- mix of blue, red, and cream)
Blue Tortie with white (femaily only)
Blue Smoke Tortie (female only)
Blue smoke Tortie with white (female only)
Blue Torbie (female only- tabby face- mix of blue, red, cream)
Blue Torbie with white (female only)
Red Tabby (male only)
Red Smoke (male only)
Red with white (male only)
Cream (male only)
Cream with white (male only)
Silver Tabby
*Polydactyl
Black Smoke
Black
Black with white
Black Silver Tabby
Black Brown Tabby
Black Brown Tabby with White
Black Tortie (female only- mix of black, red, cream)
Black Smoke Tortie (female only)
Black Torbie (female only- Tabby face- mix of black, red, cream)
Blue
Blue with white
Blue Smoke
Blue Tortie (female only- mix of blue, red, and cream)
Blue Tortie with white (femaily only)
Blue Smoke Tortie (female only)
Blue smoke Tortie with white (female only)
Blue Torbie (female only- tabby face- mix of blue, red, cream)
Blue Torbie with white (female only)
Red Tabby (male only)
Red Smoke (male only)
Red with white (male only)
Cream (male only)
Cream with white (male only)
Silver Tabby
*Polydactyl
Maine Coon Color Codes...
Three capital letters identify the breed
- MCO=Maine Coon
- n - black
- a - blue
- d - red
- e - creme
- f - blacktortie
- g - bluetortie
- s - silver
- w - white
- 01 - Van
- 02 - Harlequin
- 03 - Bicolor
- 09 - Unspecified amount of white
- 11 - Shaded
- 12 - Shell
- 21 - Agouti (unspecified tabby pattern) 22 = blotched tabby (classic tabby)
- 23 - macharel tabby
- 24 - spotted tabby 25 = ticked tabby
Are Maine Coon Cats Lap Cats?
For many cat owners out there, these “gentle giants”, as we like to call them, are one of the preferred cat species to own. They are all about the cuddles, but are Maine Coon cats lap cats?
Maine Coons are famous for their kind and loving characters. Keep reading to discover if your Maine Coon cat will want to sit on your lap.
Some Maine Coons love laying on their owners lap, others don’t. Statistically, only 30.4% of owners claim their Maine Coons are a lap cat, with the rest stating their cat prefers to lay beside, or nearby them. On occasion, some Maine Coons will enjoy cuddles on owners laps, though in general this cat breed isn’t likely to be a regular lap cat.
Whilst this particular cat breed will undoubtedly get close to their owners’ hearts, they might show their affection in different ways other than sitting on a person’s lap.
If you want to get more information about Maine Coons and their personality, then read on.
We have an interesting piece of research that might interest you, as well as plenty of useful facts.
Some Maine Coons are lap cats, whilst others aren’t.
Understandably, many potential owners would love to know for definite if the kitten they are buying will have a tendency towards being a lap cat, or not.
However, unless you are a clairvoyant, this simply isn’t possible to know in the beginning.
With time, love and affection though, you will soon discover your own Maine Coons personal preferences on the matter.
Despite being known as one of the friendliest cat species, Maine Coons will not necessarily sit on their owner’s lap.
So the answer to ‘are Maine Coon cats lap cats’ is divided between both yes and no.
They will almost certainly like to be near you, but depending upon your own individual Maine Coons personal preferences, they might not necessarily sit on your lap.
What we can say with certainty, however, is that Maine Coons love the company of their human guardians, and may be tempted to rest in their laps from time to time.
https://www.mainecooncentral.com/are-maine-coon-cats-lap-cats/?fbclid=IwAR2fWQaaULutlbxh-4OBD_wLwSXu0ADoXdaxj7dwgLbO-SUQUayzc8Wznts
Maine Coons are famous for their kind and loving characters. Keep reading to discover if your Maine Coon cat will want to sit on your lap.
Some Maine Coons love laying on their owners lap, others don’t. Statistically, only 30.4% of owners claim their Maine Coons are a lap cat, with the rest stating their cat prefers to lay beside, or nearby them. On occasion, some Maine Coons will enjoy cuddles on owners laps, though in general this cat breed isn’t likely to be a regular lap cat.
Whilst this particular cat breed will undoubtedly get close to their owners’ hearts, they might show their affection in different ways other than sitting on a person’s lap.
If you want to get more information about Maine Coons and their personality, then read on.
We have an interesting piece of research that might interest you, as well as plenty of useful facts.
Some Maine Coons are lap cats, whilst others aren’t.
Understandably, many potential owners would love to know for definite if the kitten they are buying will have a tendency towards being a lap cat, or not.
However, unless you are a clairvoyant, this simply isn’t possible to know in the beginning.
With time, love and affection though, you will soon discover your own Maine Coons personal preferences on the matter.
Despite being known as one of the friendliest cat species, Maine Coons will not necessarily sit on their owner’s lap.
So the answer to ‘are Maine Coon cats lap cats’ is divided between both yes and no.
They will almost certainly like to be near you, but depending upon your own individual Maine Coons personal preferences, they might not necessarily sit on your lap.
What we can say with certainty, however, is that Maine Coons love the company of their human guardians, and may be tempted to rest in their laps from time to time.
https://www.mainecooncentral.com/are-maine-coon-cats-lap-cats/?fbclid=IwAR2fWQaaULutlbxh-4OBD_wLwSXu0ADoXdaxj7dwgLbO-SUQUayzc8Wznts
Favorite Products...
Suggested items for your Maine Coon. I order a lot of our stuff on Amazon. If its not ordered from there I will say.
Neater Feeder
Medium to large is the size we use. We use this for water only. Our Coons splash a lot in their water dish. Helps a ton to keep water off the floor. This is also in pet stores.
Neater Feeder
Medium to large is the size we use. We use this for water only. Our Coons splash a lot in their water dish. Helps a ton to keep water off the floor. This is also in pet stores.
PetSafe
Medium size is the one we use. Having several cats these get emptied fast. These are dishwasher safe.
Medium size is the one we use. Having several cats these get emptied fast. These are dishwasher safe.
Water Fountain
This brand is ORSDA on Amazon. I prefer the stainless steal over plastic. Cats can be allergic to plastic. These are also dishwasher safe. There are other stainless steal brands on Amazon as well. Our cats drink a lot more water with these which is very good for them. Cats are known to not drink enough so these things are definitely worth it. Our dog loves it too.
This brand is ORSDA on Amazon. I prefer the stainless steal over plastic. Cats can be allergic to plastic. These are also dishwasher safe. There are other stainless steal brands on Amazon as well. Our cats drink a lot more water with these which is very good for them. Cats are known to not drink enough so these things are definitely worth it. Our dog loves it too.
CatGuru New Premium Cat Litter Scoop Holder
It can hold up to two litter scoops. Takes up minimal space.
It can hold up to two litter scoops. Takes up minimal space.
PetFavorites Original Mylar
Crinkle Balls Cat Toys
Our kittens and cats love these things.
Crinkle Balls Cat Toys
Our kittens and cats love these things.
DuraScoop Jumbo Cat Litter Scoop
I’ve tried many scoops. This one is very sturdy and will last years.
I’ve tried many scoops. This one is very sturdy and will last years.
AmazonBasics Cooling Elevated Pet Bed
This is very big. It can hold up to 3 adult Maine Coons. They love this bed.
This is very big. It can hold up to 3 adult Maine Coons. They love this bed.
FURminator Undercoat Deshedding Tool
These types of brushes are awesome for Maine Coon coats. I have bought other brands as well and they all seem to work the same. I also use this brush to clean our cat trees. You brush the cat tree with it like you would your cat. Picks up way more than just a vacuum.
These types of brushes are awesome for Maine Coon coats. I have bought other brands as well and they all seem to work the same. I also use this brush to clean our cat trees. You brush the cat tree with it like you would your cat. Picks up way more than just a vacuum.
Bergan Turboscratcher Cat
There are other brands. I have not tried the others so I can’t compare quality. I do know this brand is sturdy. I get the Cardboard circle refills from Walmart.
There are other brands. I have not tried the others so I can’t compare quality. I do know this brand is sturdy. I get the Cardboard circle refills from Walmart.
Petstages Cat Tracks Cat Toy - Fun Levels of Interactive Play - Circle Track with Moving Balls
There are many different brands similar to this one. I’ve tried a cheaper brand once and the quality doesn’t compare. I would stick with this brand.
There are many different brands similar to this one. I’ve tried a cheaper brand once and the quality doesn’t compare. I would stick with this brand.
SmartCat Pioneer Pet Ultimate Scratching Post
Heavy duty and will last for years.
Heavy duty and will last for years.
New Cat Condos
Very sturdy cat tree. This is what we have in our cat building. They last us a couple of years but we have several adult Maine Coons and several kittens who use them. If we had one or two cats they would last us years! I would order from Petco or Chewy.
Very sturdy cat tree. This is what we have in our cat building. They last us a couple of years but we have several adult Maine Coons and several kittens who use them. If we had one or two cats they would last us years! I would order from Petco or Chewy.
Catit Hooded Cat Pan
https://www.chewy.com/catit-jumbo-hooded-cat-pan/dp/49789
I take the door off the this litter box so our larger coons can fit into it better. Not all of ours like hooded lids so that is something you will have to try out. You can find this on Chewy.
Size:
Jumbo Pan 22.4 inches 18.3 inches 19.7 inches
Jumbo Door Opening 9.6 inches 10.4 inches
Regular Pan 22.4 inches 15.3 inches 18.3 inches
Regular Door Opening 9.6 inches 10.4 inches
https://www.chewy.com/catit-jumbo-hooded-cat-pan/dp/49789
I take the door off the this litter box so our larger coons can fit into it better. Not all of ours like hooded lids so that is something you will have to try out. You can find this on Chewy.
Size:
Jumbo Pan 22.4 inches 18.3 inches 19.7 inches
Jumbo Door Opening 9.6 inches 10.4 inches
Regular Pan 22.4 inches 15.3 inches 18.3 inches
Regular Door Opening 9.6 inches 10.4 inches
Other Toys:
Tunnel tubes (any)
Wand (any)
Catnip
Cat bed (our Coons love blankets or cat/ dog bed)
Cardboard scratching (any)
Red lazer (any)
Kick Sticks (with catnip)
Activity Center (any)
Tunnel tubes (any)
Wand (any)
Catnip
Cat bed (our Coons love blankets or cat/ dog bed)
Cardboard scratching (any)
Red lazer (any)
Kick Sticks (with catnip)
Activity Center (any)
Hello everyone showing interest in my beautiful babies. I've had a few people stating that they just want a pet. They sometimes don't even care if their pet has papers. They think anything over $400 is way too much money. I want to give a little bit of education on what it takes to be a good ethical breeder and the expenses we incur to have beautiful little Maine Coon Kittens. People get shocked when they hear our kittens cost between $2000 and $5000 quite frankly anything less is not even covering the expenses we incur. Also we are breeding Euroline Maine coons and not Americanline Maine Coons. Our Queens and Studs are imported. The following is why we charge what we do.
Breeders pay double this amount for a good quality Maine Coon with Breeding Rights. Then comes the Genetic Testing. We test for HCM a Fatal Heart Condition. We test for SMA, Spinal Muscular Atrophy specific to Maine Coon Cats. We test for PK Deficiency. Also known as Erythrocyte Pyruvate Kinase Deficiency. A known blood disorder in Maine Coon Cats. We also test our cats for PKD, otherwise known as Polycystic kidney disease. A disease that can cause kidney failure. We don't want to pass this on to our kittens. These test aren't cheap. We have to test both Males and Females to make sure they are free and clear of these genetic defects. If any cat doesn't pass with flying colors guess what happens? They get Spayed/Neutered. We never recoup the money spent. Now that's all just the beginning. Once the female queen is pregnant. Guess what? The expenses don't stop. They have Vet Visits. Sometimes X-Rays. These aren't free. Then the day comes and we have kittens. We could only have 1 or 2 kittens and we never make enough to cover what we have spent or it could be 6 healthy kittens. The expenses still don't stop at this point. Good breeders pay for shots on your new kittens. I've also have had emergency c sections which can cost $2500 or more. Plus you got to include high quality cat food, litter, housing, breeding equipment, other emergencies, etc. We had to build a special building for our Stud breeders because once they hit puberty they spray. It's such a strong odor you do not want that all over your house. Also I include a one year genetic health guarantee on our kittens. You will not see a back yard breeder give you anything close to that. Plus you have to consider federal, state, and sales tax that has to be turned in.
Yes you can find kittens for a lot less with a back yard breeder but this is why you don't want to deal with a back yard breeder. They may sell their kittens between $400 and $800, but they don't test their Breeding Cats and most of the time they don't even work with Pure Breed Maine Coons. You are purchasing a highly inflated cat that is a mix breed. I encourage everyone looking for a quality cat to do your homework. Make sure your breeder is doing all they can to bring you a healthy pure breed kitten. A good breeder makes even less than these back yard breeders do in the grand scheme of things. Remember you get what you pay for!!! Pay for something nice!!! If you still feel that way then you are honestly looking in the wrong places. Shelters have plenty of babies needing homes too!! If your here because your thinking we breeders are making Bank and you just have to have a Breeding Pair so that you can too. What are your plans? Are you planning to be an ethical Breeder, or are you planning to be a Back Yard Breeder?
With inflation everything has gone up in prices which means breeding is even more expensive. Shipping cats alone has doubled in prices.
There is a whole lot more that goes on around here I have not stated like. It's a 24/7 job which can also be very emotional as well. We love this breed and take pride in what we do.
Breeders pay double this amount for a good quality Maine Coon with Breeding Rights. Then comes the Genetic Testing. We test for HCM a Fatal Heart Condition. We test for SMA, Spinal Muscular Atrophy specific to Maine Coon Cats. We test for PK Deficiency. Also known as Erythrocyte Pyruvate Kinase Deficiency. A known blood disorder in Maine Coon Cats. We also test our cats for PKD, otherwise known as Polycystic kidney disease. A disease that can cause kidney failure. We don't want to pass this on to our kittens. These test aren't cheap. We have to test both Males and Females to make sure they are free and clear of these genetic defects. If any cat doesn't pass with flying colors guess what happens? They get Spayed/Neutered. We never recoup the money spent. Now that's all just the beginning. Once the female queen is pregnant. Guess what? The expenses don't stop. They have Vet Visits. Sometimes X-Rays. These aren't free. Then the day comes and we have kittens. We could only have 1 or 2 kittens and we never make enough to cover what we have spent or it could be 6 healthy kittens. The expenses still don't stop at this point. Good breeders pay for shots on your new kittens. I've also have had emergency c sections which can cost $2500 or more. Plus you got to include high quality cat food, litter, housing, breeding equipment, other emergencies, etc. We had to build a special building for our Stud breeders because once they hit puberty they spray. It's such a strong odor you do not want that all over your house. Also I include a one year genetic health guarantee on our kittens. You will not see a back yard breeder give you anything close to that. Plus you have to consider federal, state, and sales tax that has to be turned in.
Yes you can find kittens for a lot less with a back yard breeder but this is why you don't want to deal with a back yard breeder. They may sell their kittens between $400 and $800, but they don't test their Breeding Cats and most of the time they don't even work with Pure Breed Maine Coons. You are purchasing a highly inflated cat that is a mix breed. I encourage everyone looking for a quality cat to do your homework. Make sure your breeder is doing all they can to bring you a healthy pure breed kitten. A good breeder makes even less than these back yard breeders do in the grand scheme of things. Remember you get what you pay for!!! Pay for something nice!!! If you still feel that way then you are honestly looking in the wrong places. Shelters have plenty of babies needing homes too!! If your here because your thinking we breeders are making Bank and you just have to have a Breeding Pair so that you can too. What are your plans? Are you planning to be an ethical Breeder, or are you planning to be a Back Yard Breeder?
With inflation everything has gone up in prices which means breeding is even more expensive. Shipping cats alone has doubled in prices.
There is a whole lot more that goes on around here I have not stated like. It's a 24/7 job which can also be very emotional as well. We love this breed and take pride in what we do.
Maine Coon Cat Care…
When bringing a kitten into your home, it’s best to make sure you’re prepared. That will help create a smooth transition that is less stressful for your new cat. Here is a rundown of supplies you’ll need to prepare in advance. We think you’ll find that when you’re prepared, you’ll have more time left to bond.
When hitting the road, you’ll need to transport your kitten in a carrier. This will keep her safe and provide a sense of security. Traveling can be scary for a kitten, so make sure the carrier is roomy and well-ventilated. Try lining the bottom with a towel from her former home or shelter to comfort her with a familiar scent. And make sure your carrier is secure and easy to clean.
When bringing a kitten into your home, it’s best to make sure you’re prepared. That will help create a smooth transition that is less stressful for your new cat. Here is a rundown of supplies you’ll need to prepare in advance. We think you’ll find that when you’re prepared, you’ll have more time left to bond.
When hitting the road, you’ll need to transport your kitten in a carrier. This will keep her safe and provide a sense of security. Traveling can be scary for a kitten, so make sure the carrier is roomy and well-ventilated. Try lining the bottom with a towel from her former home or shelter to comfort her with a familiar scent. And make sure your carrier is secure and easy to clean.
FOOD AND WATER BOWLS
Your kitten has lots of energy, so select bowls that won’t tip over too easily. Some kittens are allergic to plastic, so opt for a different material like easy-to-clean stainless steel. You’ll want to wash her food and water bowls daily to keep things fresh. Plenty of clean, fresh water on hand is key for a kitten too. For food I use stainless steal bowls and SafePet dispenser. I use stainless steel water fountains and Neater Feeders for water.
Your kitten has lots of energy, so select bowls that won’t tip over too easily. Some kittens are allergic to plastic, so opt for a different material like easy-to-clean stainless steel. You’ll want to wash her food and water bowls daily to keep things fresh. Plenty of clean, fresh water on hand is key for a kitten too. For food I use stainless steal bowls and SafePet dispenser. I use stainless steel water fountains and Neater Feeders for water.
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We feed our kittens Purina Pro Kitten Chicken and Rice, Purina One Kitten, and Royal Canin Maine Coon Kitten. If you plan to switch foods we recommend switching to a new food gradually over the course of 7-10 days. For example, make a mixture that contains 25% of the new food and 75% of the old food and feed that for three days. Then make it 50-50 for three more days, then 75% new food and 25% old food for three more days. If your pet seems comfortable with this progression, you can start feeding 100% new food. Maine Coons are slow growing cats and will need to stay on kitten food till age 18 months to 2 years old. Maine Coon kittens should stay on kitten food till 18 months old.
LITTER BOX
Make sure the box is roomy to prevent scattering litter around the house. You’ll also need to buy cat litter and a scoop or strainer to remove soiled bits. A clean litter box is key because your kitten will avoid using a messy, smelly one. Wash her pan once a week with soap and water. It is best not to use strong disinfectants (containing ammonia); they aren’t necessary and may offend your kitten’s sensitive nose. Use a mild disinfectant such as bleach and water on the litter box about once a month, putting the box outdoors to dry in the fresh air, if possible. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling.
IMPORTANT: Humans may contract an organism called toxoplasma from cat feces while cleaning out the litter box. Wear gloves while changing your kitten’s litter and always wash your hands afterwards. Pregnant women should be especially cautious and consider asking another family member to clean the litter box. This is because toxoplasmosis can cause severe birth defects. We recommend that a non-pregnant family member clean and change the litter box.
Make sure the box is roomy to prevent scattering litter around the house. You’ll also need to buy cat litter and a scoop or strainer to remove soiled bits. A clean litter box is key because your kitten will avoid using a messy, smelly one. Wash her pan once a week with soap and water. It is best not to use strong disinfectants (containing ammonia); they aren’t necessary and may offend your kitten’s sensitive nose. Use a mild disinfectant such as bleach and water on the litter box about once a month, putting the box outdoors to dry in the fresh air, if possible. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling.
IMPORTANT: Humans may contract an organism called toxoplasma from cat feces while cleaning out the litter box. Wear gloves while changing your kitten’s litter and always wash your hands afterwards. Pregnant women should be especially cautious and consider asking another family member to clean the litter box. This is because toxoplasmosis can cause severe birth defects. We recommend that a non-pregnant family member clean and change the litter box.
BED
Most kittens like to have their own place to rest, but don’t be disappointed if she chooses to ignore her new bed. Until you see what your kitten’s preferences are, you may not want to spend a lot of money on a fancy wicker basket or plush bed. Begin with a simple, cardboard “bed.” Get a roomy cardboard box with sides high enough to keep out drafts. Cut out a doorway. Line the box with an old cushion and cover with soft, washable material for warmth. If possible, use an old sweatshirt for a lining. Your scent will be comforting and encourage her to use her new space. Cats are very particular, so make sure the bedding is always clean. Place the bed in a quiet, draft-free corner away from the main traffic in your house. This will be your kitten’s corner.
Most kittens like to have their own place to rest, but don’t be disappointed if she chooses to ignore her new bed. Until you see what your kitten’s preferences are, you may not want to spend a lot of money on a fancy wicker basket or plush bed. Begin with a simple, cardboard “bed.” Get a roomy cardboard box with sides high enough to keep out drafts. Cut out a doorway. Line the box with an old cushion and cover with soft, washable material for warmth. If possible, use an old sweatshirt for a lining. Your scent will be comforting and encourage her to use her new space. Cats are very particular, so make sure the bedding is always clean. Place the bed in a quiet, draft-free corner away from the main traffic in your house. This will be your kitten’s corner.
SCRATCHING POST
Contrary to popular belief, cats do not use a scratching post to sharpen their claws. They use it for exercise (to stretch out to their full length), to clean away dead scales from their nails, and to mark their territory, both visually and with their scent. Get a scratching post right away to help train your kitten early. The scratching post should be sturdy and tall enough to let your kitten stretch out, full length. Train your kitten to use the scratching post as soon as she comes home. Encourage her to use her post by playing with her often, near or around it. She’ll get the idea quickly. Then when she gets the urge to stretch, hopefully she’ll use the post instead of your furniture. Try to place your kitten’s bed and scratching post close together so she learns to use it when she first wakes up and needs a stretch.
Contrary to popular belief, cats do not use a scratching post to sharpen their claws. They use it for exercise (to stretch out to their full length), to clean away dead scales from their nails, and to mark their territory, both visually and with their scent. Get a scratching post right away to help train your kitten early. The scratching post should be sturdy and tall enough to let your kitten stretch out, full length. Train your kitten to use the scratching post as soon as she comes home. Encourage her to use her post by playing with her often, near or around it. She’ll get the idea quickly. Then when she gets the urge to stretch, hopefully she’ll use the post instead of your furniture. Try to place your kitten’s bed and scratching post close together so she learns to use it when she first wakes up and needs a stretch.
COLLAR, HARNESS, & LEASH
A cat harness or leash can be a great training tool for your kitten, though they’re not a must. If you’re already thinking along these lines, a harness is probably best, as kittens often dislike the feeling of a leash. However, make sure your kitten always wears a collar made of lightweight material and an identification tag. Have her wear one early on, to get her used to the sensation.
A cat harness or leash can be a great training tool for your kitten, though they’re not a must. If you’re already thinking along these lines, a harness is probably best, as kittens often dislike the feeling of a leash. However, make sure your kitten always wears a collar made of lightweight material and an identification tag. Have her wear one early on, to get her used to the sensation.
GROOMING TOOLS
Grooming helps keep your kitten healthy and beautiful. You’ll need both a flea comb and a brush, though the type of brush you use depends on the texture and length of your kitten’s coat. Ask your veterinarian or groomer to recommend one that’s right for you.
Grooming helps keep your kitten healthy and beautiful. You’ll need both a flea comb and a brush, though the type of brush you use depends on the texture and length of your kitten’s coat. Ask your veterinarian or groomer to recommend one that’s right for you.
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TOYS
A kitten is naturally curious and needs toys that are safe and fun to play with. Choose toys made especially for cats—ones that cannot be splintered, torn apart or swallowed. A celluloid ball that rattles, a catnip mouse or a hard rubber mouse is perfect. To avoid accidents, some cat toys should be used only when you are playing with your kitten.
Toys don’t need to be store bought. Use your imagination. Some great play-things include:
We hope this list helped prepare you to make your home a happy place for your cat.
When you first bring your kitten home for the first few hours, keep your kitten company in one room. Let them get used to you and their new surroundings. Kittens, like all animals, need a bit of time to adjust. They may be shy at first, and it will take a few weeks for them to feel totally comfortable.
If there are other animals in the home, place them in another room during this time period to give the new one a chance to explore their surroundings. Then introduce your other pets slowly.
Spend as much time as possible caring for your new kitten, and they’ll begin to feel right at home before you know it.
A kitten is naturally curious and needs toys that are safe and fun to play with. Choose toys made especially for cats—ones that cannot be splintered, torn apart or swallowed. A celluloid ball that rattles, a catnip mouse or a hard rubber mouse is perfect. To avoid accidents, some cat toys should be used only when you are playing with your kitten.
Toys don’t need to be store bought. Use your imagination. Some great play-things include:
- Table tennis ball
- Empty wooden thread spool
- Unshelled walnut
- Balled-up waxed paper
- Cardboard toilet paper tube
- Empty shoe box
- Balls of string
- Spools of thread
- Rubber bands
- Balls of aluminum foil or cellophane
- Corks
- Wire twist ties
We hope this list helped prepare you to make your home a happy place for your cat.
When you first bring your kitten home for the first few hours, keep your kitten company in one room. Let them get used to you and their new surroundings. Kittens, like all animals, need a bit of time to adjust. They may be shy at first, and it will take a few weeks for them to feel totally comfortable.
If there are other animals in the home, place them in another room during this time period to give the new one a chance to explore their surroundings. Then introduce your other pets slowly.
Spend as much time as possible caring for your new kitten, and they’ll begin to feel right at home before you know it.
Quarantine *this is very important to do*
Every kitten that enters your home should be given a quarantine period of a minimum of 14 days. Especially if you have other animals. If you get two kittens from the same place they can be together during quarantine. If you have two kittens from two different places they will need to be separate from each other. During this time, your kittens should be confined to a small area that is easy to disinfect, warm and given regular interaction. A spare bedroom or bathroom works perfectly for quarantining kittens. You want to make sure they have their own litter box, food, water, and toys. When my kittens leave us I make sure they are healthy before leaving. Stress can bring on colds. Does not mean your kitten will get one when leaving us. This just insures if it did happen, you are not exposing it to other cats. When I bring any new cat or kitten into my home, I do this as well. I also take them into the vet to be checked along with a stool sample. Once it's cleared and the kitten has not shown any signs of a cold then I will allow them to be around my other cats.
MAINE COON BREED HEALTH INFORMATION
It is essential to use a Vet that is familiar with this breed. The majority of MC kittens will experience juvenile gingivitis while teething. This breed loses all baby teeth. It takes about 6 months for the adult teeth to grow in. It varies from kitten to kitten on how much swelling of the gums they experience during this process which occurs from 5 months to a year of age. Many Vets misdiagnose this as stomates or other mouth diseases and recommend pulling teeth. Do Not let them pull any teeth. Find another vet. Always get a second opinion, just like you would for your own health.
Also, some MC kittens have an enzyme in their mouth that makes the gums try to grow over the teeth as the body is rejecting the teeth. Do Not pull any teeth. The proper treatment is giving the kitten/cat Prednisone for inflammation for several weeks. In severe cases, surgery is required to remove some of the excess growth. Then give prednisone and an antibiotic. Surprisingly, the excess growth normally does not grow back. It is very unlikely that a MC kitten or young adult cat will have any kind of permanent mouth diseases that would require pulling teeth. Remember, MC Cats grow until 4 years of age, so they are just a big kitten at 1 year old.
Everything about MC Cats is large compared to other cat breeds. Head, Feet, Boning, Internal organs such as Heart and loud Heartbeat. Vets unfamiliar with the MC breed will misdiagnose murmurs. Some MC kittens will experience a juvenile murmur as the kittens grow extremely fast. If they have a murmur at all, they usually outgrow it within 6 months. A murmur is an entirely different issue from HCM which is enlargement of the heart and can be fatal. All Wildcat Creek breeders have been DNA tested for HCM and are negative for the disease. Murmurs come in 6 grades. Any murmurs Grades (1-3) are considered minor and will normally be outgrown and should not be a concern. Grades (4-6) murmurs are major murmurs and will negatively impact the kitten’s life. Wildcat Creek kittens are examined at their vet appointment for murmurs. If they have any grade minor murmur buyer will be informed, it will be noted on their health records. Any kitten with a major murmur is not sold. Normally, MC kittens/cats do not just suddenly develop a murmur. If they do not have a murmur at 3 months of age it is extremely unlikely, they will develop one, especially during the first year of growth. If your kitten is diagnosed with a murmur, get a second opinion or find a Vet familiar with this breed. The kitten did not have a murmur when you took it home.
It is essential to use a Vet that is familiar with this breed. The majority of MC kittens will experience juvenile gingivitis while teething. This breed loses all baby teeth. It takes about 6 months for the adult teeth to grow in. It varies from kitten to kitten on how much swelling of the gums they experience during this process which occurs from 5 months to a year of age. Many Vets misdiagnose this as stomates or other mouth diseases and recommend pulling teeth. Do Not let them pull any teeth. Find another vet. Always get a second opinion, just like you would for your own health.
Also, some MC kittens have an enzyme in their mouth that makes the gums try to grow over the teeth as the body is rejecting the teeth. Do Not pull any teeth. The proper treatment is giving the kitten/cat Prednisone for inflammation for several weeks. In severe cases, surgery is required to remove some of the excess growth. Then give prednisone and an antibiotic. Surprisingly, the excess growth normally does not grow back. It is very unlikely that a MC kitten or young adult cat will have any kind of permanent mouth diseases that would require pulling teeth. Remember, MC Cats grow until 4 years of age, so they are just a big kitten at 1 year old.
Everything about MC Cats is large compared to other cat breeds. Head, Feet, Boning, Internal organs such as Heart and loud Heartbeat. Vets unfamiliar with the MC breed will misdiagnose murmurs. Some MC kittens will experience a juvenile murmur as the kittens grow extremely fast. If they have a murmur at all, they usually outgrow it within 6 months. A murmur is an entirely different issue from HCM which is enlargement of the heart and can be fatal. All Wildcat Creek breeders have been DNA tested for HCM and are negative for the disease. Murmurs come in 6 grades. Any murmurs Grades (1-3) are considered minor and will normally be outgrown and should not be a concern. Grades (4-6) murmurs are major murmurs and will negatively impact the kitten’s life. Wildcat Creek kittens are examined at their vet appointment for murmurs. If they have any grade minor murmur buyer will be informed, it will be noted on their health records. Any kitten with a major murmur is not sold. Normally, MC kittens/cats do not just suddenly develop a murmur. If they do not have a murmur at 3 months of age it is extremely unlikely, they will develop one, especially during the first year of growth. If your kitten is diagnosed with a murmur, get a second opinion or find a Vet familiar with this breed. The kitten did not have a murmur when you took it home.
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Foods Poisonous to Cats
Fruit
Citrus oil extracts
Grapes & raisins
Persimmons
Meat
Canned tuna (for humans)
Fat trimmings
Liver
Bones
Raw fish
Herbs/Spices
Garlic
Salt
Sugar intensive foods
Beverages
Alcohol
Coffee
Tea
Milk
Vegetables
Tomatoes
Other
Baby food containing garlic powder
Caffeine
Chocolate
Dog food (fed regularly)
Human vitamins containing iron
Macadamia nuts
Dairy products
Mushrooms
Onions
Potatoes
Raw eggs
Tobacco
Yeast dough
Plants
Persimmons
Potato, rhubarb, tomato leaves and stems
Amaryllis
Azalea
Cactus
Caladium
Creeping charlies
Lilies
Dieffenbachia
Ivy
Mistletoe
Philodendron
Poinsettia
Fruit
Citrus oil extracts
Grapes & raisins
Persimmons
Meat
Canned tuna (for humans)
Fat trimmings
Liver
Bones
Raw fish
Herbs/Spices
Garlic
Salt
Sugar intensive foods
Beverages
Alcohol
Coffee
Tea
Milk
Vegetables
Tomatoes
Other
Baby food containing garlic powder
Caffeine
Chocolate
Dog food (fed regularly)
Human vitamins containing iron
Macadamia nuts
Dairy products
Mushrooms
Onions
Potatoes
Raw eggs
Tobacco
Yeast dough
Plants
Persimmons
Potato, rhubarb, tomato leaves and stems
Amaryllis
Azalea
Cactus
Caladium
Creeping charlies
Lilies
Dieffenbachia
Ivy
Mistletoe
Philodendron
Poinsettia
What can my cat eat on Thanksgiving!
Thanksgiving is an exciting time of year for pet parents and their pets. They get to meet new people and possibly beg for some tasty turkey. Many pet parents (me included) want to share some of the wonderful food with our kitties, but this is not always a good idea. This blog will include what you can share with your kitty and some yummy treats so that your kitty can participate in the festivities.
What can you share with your cat?
Cats can eat a very diverse diet including meat, fish, some fruit and vegetables. However, their diet cannot include processed human food, foods high in sugar or foods with extra salt or seasonings.
Green Beans
A few green beans, fed occasionally is actually good for fluffy, but these aren’t the green beans in your green bean casserole. Keep your kitty’s green beans simple by steaming them until soft. Before cooking cut the green beans into small, 1/2 inch chunks. For a special treat mix in some chunk tuna or wet food. Feed these as a treat or with your cat’s meal for a special Thanksgiving treat.
Baked Squash and Carrots
Again, feed in moderation squash and carrots are good for your kitty. Make sure the squash and carrots are fully cooked before feeding it, as undercooked veggies are indigestible for your cat. Some people like to bake the squash at 350 degrees until soft, but you can also steam them (again until soft). Make sure you do not add any oil or seasoning to these vegetables. The fully cooked squash and carrots can be served mashed up or cut up in small, 1/2 inch chunks.
Turkey
Cats can join in on this aspect of Thanksgiving fun. Make your kitty his or her own special turkey or set some meat aside. Cats cannot handle the seasoning or baste you put on your turkey, so simply bake the turkey in the oven, plain. Bake the turkey until fully cooked, raw turkey can make your kitty sick. Make sure you choose lower fat portions of the turkey and remove any bones before feeding. Cut the turkey up into small chunks or shreds. This can be feed as a treat for a few meals, like on Thanksgiving day. Turkey can be high in calories so feed only a small amount.
https://images.app.goo.gl/7GSPXRJBiLUciK1E9
Thanksgiving is an exciting time of year for pet parents and their pets. They get to meet new people and possibly beg for some tasty turkey. Many pet parents (me included) want to share some of the wonderful food with our kitties, but this is not always a good idea. This blog will include what you can share with your kitty and some yummy treats so that your kitty can participate in the festivities.
What can you share with your cat?
Cats can eat a very diverse diet including meat, fish, some fruit and vegetables. However, their diet cannot include processed human food, foods high in sugar or foods with extra salt or seasonings.
Green Beans
A few green beans, fed occasionally is actually good for fluffy, but these aren’t the green beans in your green bean casserole. Keep your kitty’s green beans simple by steaming them until soft. Before cooking cut the green beans into small, 1/2 inch chunks. For a special treat mix in some chunk tuna or wet food. Feed these as a treat or with your cat’s meal for a special Thanksgiving treat.
Baked Squash and Carrots
Again, feed in moderation squash and carrots are good for your kitty. Make sure the squash and carrots are fully cooked before feeding it, as undercooked veggies are indigestible for your cat. Some people like to bake the squash at 350 degrees until soft, but you can also steam them (again until soft). Make sure you do not add any oil or seasoning to these vegetables. The fully cooked squash and carrots can be served mashed up or cut up in small, 1/2 inch chunks.
Turkey
Cats can join in on this aspect of Thanksgiving fun. Make your kitty his or her own special turkey or set some meat aside. Cats cannot handle the seasoning or baste you put on your turkey, so simply bake the turkey in the oven, plain. Bake the turkey until fully cooked, raw turkey can make your kitty sick. Make sure you choose lower fat portions of the turkey and remove any bones before feeding. Cut the turkey up into small chunks or shreds. This can be feed as a treat for a few meals, like on Thanksgiving day. Turkey can be high in calories so feed only a small amount.
https://images.app.goo.gl/7GSPXRJBiLUciK1E9
If cat is not breathing, follow these steps
1. Put your cat on its side
2. Make sure nothing is blocking your cat’s airway by checking that there are no foreign objects in its mouth
3. Extend your cat’s head and neck 4. Give artificial respiration by blowing into your cat’s nose, while keeping its mouth shut
a. Breathe twice into your cat’s nose, allowing air to leave its lungs in between each breath
b. You should see the chest rise and fall as you give breaths
c. Do this about 20 times per minute
5. Lay the palm of one hand over your cat’s rib cage, over the heart, then place the other hand on top of the first
6. Push down about one inch and then release the pressure
a. You should press and release about 80 times a minute
7. Give two breathe to your cat for artificial respiration after administering 30 compressions
8. Continue until your cat breathes by itself
1. Put your cat on its side
2. Make sure nothing is blocking your cat’s airway by checking that there are no foreign objects in its mouth
3. Extend your cat’s head and neck 4. Give artificial respiration by blowing into your cat’s nose, while keeping its mouth shut
a. Breathe twice into your cat’s nose, allowing air to leave its lungs in between each breath
b. You should see the chest rise and fall as you give breaths
c. Do this about 20 times per minute
5. Lay the palm of one hand over your cat’s rib cage, over the heart, then place the other hand on top of the first
6. Push down about one inch and then release the pressure
a. You should press and release about 80 times a minute
7. Give two breathe to your cat for artificial respiration after administering 30 compressions
8. Continue until your cat breathes by itself
The Facts About Feline Heartworm Disease
Revalence and Role of HARD
FHWD is more widespread and common than previously thought. For many decades it was assumed that cats were resistant to infection, but we now know that this is an inaccurate view of heartworm infection (HWI) in this species.
Cats are more resistant to heartworm than dogs, but they are considered a susceptible host. While the rate of adult HWI in cats is only 5% to 20% of that in dogs,1 these numbers fail to consider the important physical effects caused by immature heartworms that die before they fully mature, and the number of cats whose infections go undiagnosed.
In cats, immature heartworms reaching the pulmonary vessels often die, and in doing so, trigger an intense inflammatory reaction that causes vascular, interstitial, and alveolar disease—a syndrome now termed heartworm-associated respiratory disease (HARD).
When adult HWIs are combined with the far more prevalent HARD, the true incidence of heartworm disease in cats is vastly greater than previously believed. Whether damage is caused by 9-inch adult heartworms or immature adults, it is still considered “heartworm disease” as far as the cat’s lungs are concerned. Both adult infection and HARD are clinically significant, causing significant disease and even death (in patients infected with adult heartworms) in the cat.
FHWD is more widespread and common than previously thought. For many decades it was assumed that cats were resistant to infection, but we now know that this is an inaccurate view of heartworm infection (HWI) in this species.
Cats are more resistant to heartworm than dogs, but they are considered a susceptible host. While the rate of adult HWI in cats is only 5% to 20% of that in dogs,1 these numbers fail to consider the important physical effects caused by immature heartworms that die before they fully mature, and the number of cats whose infections go undiagnosed.
In cats, immature heartworms reaching the pulmonary vessels often die, and in doing so, trigger an intense inflammatory reaction that causes vascular, interstitial, and alveolar disease—a syndrome now termed heartworm-associated respiratory disease (HARD).
When adult HWIs are combined with the far more prevalent HARD, the true incidence of heartworm disease in cats is vastly greater than previously believed. Whether damage is caused by 9-inch adult heartworms or immature adults, it is still considered “heartworm disease” as far as the cat’s lungs are concerned. Both adult infection and HARD are clinically significant, causing significant disease and even death (in patients infected with adult heartworms) in the cat.
Feline Versus Canine Heartworm Infection
Heartworm infection and disease in cats differ significantly from that seen in dogs (Table 1). While primarily considered a pulmonary vascular and secondary heart disease in dogs, in cats, the condition presents itself primarily as a lung disease.
Heartworm infection and disease in cats differ significantly from that seen in dogs (Table 1). While primarily considered a pulmonary vascular and secondary heart disease in dogs, in cats, the condition presents itself primarily as a lung disease.
Disease Differences
Adult heartworms can live for 5 to 7 years in dogs and 2 to 4 years in cats. Should a cat be unlucky enough to have heartworms that reach the adult stage, even 1 or 2 mature adults represent a substantial worm burden due to the large size of the worm compared with the small size of the cat.
Ectopic infections (in the brain, body cavities, eyes, and systemic arteries), although uncommon, are more frequent in cats than dogs. Same-sex infections also occur more frequently in cats and account for about 1/3 of feline infections. Unlike dogs, cats rarely have circulating microfilaria; if present, the microfilaria persist for only a short period. Therefore, the cat is considered a dead-end host.
Clinical Signs in Cats
The most common presenting signs in cats are:4
The largest study to date on client-owned cats demonstrated that 28% of infected cats were asymptomatic. This may be due to those cats’ sedentary lifestyle—exercise is directly correlated to severity of heartworm disease in dogs.
When the adult worm dies, the dying, fragmenting parasite worsens pulmonary inflammation and thromboembolism, often leading to fatal acute lung injury. Sudden death is sometimes the only sign of HWI in a cat, and such reactions in cats can occur from single-worm infections.
Diagnostic Testing
Diagnosing heartworm disease in cats is much more complicated than it is in dogs (Table 2). The American Heartworm Society (AHS) feline guidelines state: “The true prevalence of HWI in cats is probably understated due to diagnostic limitations, and the greater tendency of cats to exhibit only transient clinical signs or die without confirmation of infection.”
Adult heartworms can live for 5 to 7 years in dogs and 2 to 4 years in cats. Should a cat be unlucky enough to have heartworms that reach the adult stage, even 1 or 2 mature adults represent a substantial worm burden due to the large size of the worm compared with the small size of the cat.
Ectopic infections (in the brain, body cavities, eyes, and systemic arteries), although uncommon, are more frequent in cats than dogs. Same-sex infections also occur more frequently in cats and account for about 1/3 of feline infections. Unlike dogs, cats rarely have circulating microfilaria; if present, the microfilaria persist for only a short period. Therefore, the cat is considered a dead-end host.
Clinical Signs in Cats
The most common presenting signs in cats are:4
- Dyspnea (48%)
- Cough (38%)
- Vomiting unrelated to eating (16%).
The largest study to date on client-owned cats demonstrated that 28% of infected cats were asymptomatic. This may be due to those cats’ sedentary lifestyle—exercise is directly correlated to severity of heartworm disease in dogs.
When the adult worm dies, the dying, fragmenting parasite worsens pulmonary inflammation and thromboembolism, often leading to fatal acute lung injury. Sudden death is sometimes the only sign of HWI in a cat, and such reactions in cats can occur from single-worm infections.
Diagnostic Testing
Diagnosing heartworm disease in cats is much more complicated than it is in dogs (Table 2). The American Heartworm Society (AHS) feline guidelines state: “The true prevalence of HWI in cats is probably understated due to diagnostic limitations, and the greater tendency of cats to exhibit only transient clinical signs or die without confirmation of infection.”
Microfilaria Testing
Concentrate testing (filter or modified Knott test) for microfilaria is inadequate due to limited and transient microfilaremia, higher incidence of same-sex infections, and low worm burdens. Nevertheless, approximately 10% of cats with HWI are microfilaremic, and this provides a definitive diagnosis. Therefore, when suspicion is high, a test for microfilariae is still indicated.
Serology
Serologic testing of cats for heartworm presents several challenges. No single test can accurately detect heartworms at all stages in the cat, so multiple test methods need to be used—and repeated, if infection is suspected.
Antigen Testing. While the antigen test in dogs is considered the gold standard, it can detect only adult female worms. Negative antigen test results in cats can only be considered inconclusive, and false-negative antigen test results can be due to:
Use of Both Tests. Both juvenile and mature adult worms cause clinical disease in the cat; therefore, both tests are useful and help facilitate an accurate diagnosis when combined.
Radiographs:
Approximately 50% of cats with adult HWI demonstrate radiographic changes (Table 3 and Figures 1 and 2). However:
Concentrate testing (filter or modified Knott test) for microfilaria is inadequate due to limited and transient microfilaremia, higher incidence of same-sex infections, and low worm burdens. Nevertheless, approximately 10% of cats with HWI are microfilaremic, and this provides a definitive diagnosis. Therefore, when suspicion is high, a test for microfilariae is still indicated.
Serology
Serologic testing of cats for heartworm presents several challenges. No single test can accurately detect heartworms at all stages in the cat, so multiple test methods need to be used—and repeated, if infection is suspected.
Antigen Testing. While the antigen test in dogs is considered the gold standard, it can detect only adult female worms. Negative antigen test results in cats can only be considered inconclusive, and false-negative antigen test results can be due to:
- Same-sex infection with only male worms
- Infections with a single or immature female worm
- Not following test kit instructions.
Use of Both Tests. Both juvenile and mature adult worms cause clinical disease in the cat; therefore, both tests are useful and help facilitate an accurate diagnosis when combined.
- Because antibody tests detect at least exposure and partial parasite development, and antigen tests detect adult female worms, practitioners are likely to see far more antibody-positive cats than antigen-positive cats.
- Keep in mind that the antibody-positive cat is clearly at risk for HWI; owners should be strongly encouraged to invest in preventive therapy.
Radiographs:
- Can provide strong evidence of FHWD
- May detect other reasons for cough
- Are useful in monitoring lung disease and cardiac changes over time.
Approximately 50% of cats with adult HWI demonstrate radiographic changes (Table 3 and Figures 1 and 2). However:
- In some cases of FHWD, thoracic radiographs provide little or no evidence of infection.
- In infected cats, unlike in dogs, the characteristic morphologic features of the pulmonary arteries tend to normalize and may disappear completely, leaving no residual evidence of infection once the infection is eliminated.
- Infections with Toxocara cati and Aelurostrongylus species can cause similar radiographic lung patterns and must be considered in the differential diagnosis.
Echocardiography
When identified, adult heartworms appear as parallel linear artifacts, commonly called railroad tracks or equal signs (Figure 3). They are found most often in the proximal main and right lobar branches of the pulmonary artery, making it necessary to methodically probe these areas.
Due to the small size of feline pulmonary arteries relative to the larger size of adult heartworms, worms are more likely to extend from the peripheral branches into the proximal segments in cats compared with dogs. In cats, adult heartworms (%) are detected in the:
- Main pulmonary arteries (71%)
- Right atria and ventricles (43%)
- Vena cavae (7%).
Treatment
No approved treatment is available for adult FHWD; in fact, melarsomine is toxic in cats at doses as low as 3.5 mg/kg.
Supportive CareFor acutely ill cats, the best course of action is supportive care, including:
- Treatment for shock
- Corticosteroids
- Fluids
- Bronchodilators
- Oxygen via intranasal catheter or closed cage.
For infected cats with clinical signs and/or radiographic evidence of lung disease, prednisone in diminishing doses is recommended: The starting dose is 2 mg/kg PO Q 24 H, declining gradually to 0.5 mg/kg every other day by 2 weeks; then discontinuation after an additional weeks. Treatment can be repeated if clinical signs recur.
Contraindicated Medications
Diuretics are inappropriate, even for infected cats with severe interstitial or patchy alveolar lung patterns. Aspirin and other nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs have failed to produce demonstrable benefit and may actually exacerbate parenchymal pulmonary disease.
Disease Monitoring
Monitoring both antibody and antigen test results periodically, along with follow-up chest radiography, is appropriate for assessing progress.
- Radiography and echocardiography are most appropriate for cats in which pulmonary vascular and/or parenchymal lung disease has already been identified.
- Annual retesting in asymptomatic cats is usually adequate.
- Cats can continue to test antigen positive for 4 to 5 months after death of adult parasites.
Prognosis for cats with FHWD and HWI is roughly equivalent to that of cats with hypertrophic cardiomyopathy. In a study of 50 cats with naturally acquired HWI (n = 48, with adequate follow-up), the median survival duration was 1.5 years (range, 0–4015 days).
Heartworm Prevention
FHWD has been diagnosed in all 50 states and can occur wherever the disease is seen in dogs. Nevertheless, relatively few cats receive heartworm preventives because of long-held assumptions that cats are resistant to HWI and that the disease is rare.
Heartworm prevention in cats is especially important given the lack of an approved or safe and effective treatment. The AHS recommends year-round use of heartworm preventives for cats as well as dogs, and owners have the option of oral or topical monthly preventives, with varying parasite spectra. All cats in heartworm-endemic areas should receive a preventive agent because multiple studies have shown that indoor cats are susceptible to HWI.
An added benefit to administering heartworm preventives to cats is that several products also protect cats from fleas, ticks, and ear mites, as well as zoonotic parasites, such as Toxocara and Ancylostoma species, which present a year-round threat in many areas of the country.
Summary
Until recently, conventional wisdom held that heartworm disease in cats was a relatively minor disease threat. In reality, the overall rate of positivity for feline heartworm antigens is substantial.
According to a study by IDEXX, the infection rate ranges from 0.9% to 4.6%, depending on the region of the country sampled.11 This compares to a nationwide average heartworm prevalence rate of 1.2% in dogs, a feline leukemia virus prevalence of 1.9%, and a feline immunodeficiency virus prevalence of 1%.
The inaccurate perception of low heartworm incidence rates in cats can be traced to 2 factors:
- Lack of awareness, leading to low testing rates in cats
- High rate of false-negative test results due to all-male or single-female infections or immature infections.
https://todaysveterinarypractice.com/parasitology/the-facts-about-feline-heartworm-disease/?fbclid=IwAR0n-_oi0m0rTsOu-_MvpPxCgimIxHcx1R2_R0gmF-ZZL65AB3b4AImLBzg
NEW STUDY SHOWS TREATMENT WITH FELINE REVOLUTION® (SELAMECTIN) PRIOR TO HEARTWORM INFECTION PREVENTED LUNG DAMAGE IN CATS
FLORHAM PARK, N.J., November 13, 2014 -- New research published in the Journal of Veterinary Parasitology shows that administering the monthly heartworm prevention REVOLUTION® (selamectin) prior to heartworm infection (i.e., mosquito season) prevented heartworm-associated lung damage in cats. The lungs of the cats pre-treated with REVOLUTION showed no difference from the uninfected control group. This study was conducted by a team of investigators led by A. Ray Dillon, DVM, MS, MBA; DACVIM (IM) at the Auburn University College of Veterinary Medicine.
The study, “Effect of pre-cardiac and adult stages of Dirofilaria immitis in pulmonary disease of cats: CBC, bronchial lavage cytology, serology, radiographs, CT images, bronchial reactivity, and histopathology,” demonstrated that pre-cardiac stages of D. immitis-induced chronic lung disease was prevented by the administration of REVOLUTION one month prior to infection.
Radiographs and CT-scans of the heartworm infected, selamectin-treated cats were normal, antibody tests were negative and lungs were histologically the same as normal cats throughout the study. The authors concluded that, “The clinical implication of the study is that heartworm prevention should be initiated at least one month before the first risk of infection.”
About the Study
A controlled, masked research study was conducted to define the initial inflammatory response and lung damage associated with the death of precordia stages of D. immitis in cats as compared to adult heartworm infections in normal cats. In the study, eighteen cats (>6 mo.) were divided into three groups: infected, pretreated with selamectin and infected, and uninfected control. The selamectin pretreated and infected cats were administered 100 L3 by subcutaneous injection. The selamectin pretreated and infected cats were treated according to label directions 32 days and 2 days prior to L3 heartworm infection and continued to receive monthly treatments for the duration of the experiment. After infection, all cats were observed for 240 days.
The full study, A. Ray Dillon, et al., “Effect of pre-cardiac and adult stages of Dirofilaria immitis in pulmonary disease of cats: CBC, bronchial lavage cytology, serology, radiographs, CT images, bronchial reactivity, and histopathology.” Vet Parasitol (2014) can be found here.
About Heartworm Disease in Cats
The incidence of heartworm disease in cats closely correlates with the infection rate in dogs, but in cats the disease is often a result of immature worms that never become adults. Serology demonstrates that in the endemic areas of the U.S. about 25 percent of cats develop positive antibody titers to heartworms.
About REVOLUTION for Cats
REVOLUTION is the veterinarian’s #1 choice in feline parasite protection. FDA-approved REVOLUTION is a unique medication proven to be safe and effective against adult fleas and flea eggs, heartworms, roundworms, hookworms and ear mites. REVOLUTION is available in three- and six-dose packs for a broad range of cat sizes.
https://www.zoetisus.com/news-and-media/new-study-shows-treatment-with-feline-revolution-_selamectin_-prior-to-heartworm-infection-prevented-lung-damage-in-cats.aspx?fbclid=IwAR0KYUySy7E6bcf0OExTGbnisgi-_gxlJNvCAScjhZPjqip2aAWvMrlpwvE
The study, “Effect of pre-cardiac and adult stages of Dirofilaria immitis in pulmonary disease of cats: CBC, bronchial lavage cytology, serology, radiographs, CT images, bronchial reactivity, and histopathology,” demonstrated that pre-cardiac stages of D. immitis-induced chronic lung disease was prevented by the administration of REVOLUTION one month prior to infection.
Radiographs and CT-scans of the heartworm infected, selamectin-treated cats were normal, antibody tests were negative and lungs were histologically the same as normal cats throughout the study. The authors concluded that, “The clinical implication of the study is that heartworm prevention should be initiated at least one month before the first risk of infection.”
About the Study
A controlled, masked research study was conducted to define the initial inflammatory response and lung damage associated with the death of precordia stages of D. immitis in cats as compared to adult heartworm infections in normal cats. In the study, eighteen cats (>6 mo.) were divided into three groups: infected, pretreated with selamectin and infected, and uninfected control. The selamectin pretreated and infected cats were administered 100 L3 by subcutaneous injection. The selamectin pretreated and infected cats were treated according to label directions 32 days and 2 days prior to L3 heartworm infection and continued to receive monthly treatments for the duration of the experiment. After infection, all cats were observed for 240 days.
The full study, A. Ray Dillon, et al., “Effect of pre-cardiac and adult stages of Dirofilaria immitis in pulmonary disease of cats: CBC, bronchial lavage cytology, serology, radiographs, CT images, bronchial reactivity, and histopathology.” Vet Parasitol (2014) can be found here.
About Heartworm Disease in Cats
The incidence of heartworm disease in cats closely correlates with the infection rate in dogs, but in cats the disease is often a result of immature worms that never become adults. Serology demonstrates that in the endemic areas of the U.S. about 25 percent of cats develop positive antibody titers to heartworms.
About REVOLUTION for Cats
REVOLUTION is the veterinarian’s #1 choice in feline parasite protection. FDA-approved REVOLUTION is a unique medication proven to be safe and effective against adult fleas and flea eggs, heartworms, roundworms, hookworms and ear mites. REVOLUTION is available in three- and six-dose packs for a broad range of cat sizes.
https://www.zoetisus.com/news-and-media/new-study-shows-treatment-with-feline-revolution-_selamectin_-prior-to-heartworm-infection-prevented-lung-damage-in-cats.aspx?fbclid=IwAR0KYUySy7E6bcf0OExTGbnisgi-_gxlJNvCAScjhZPjqip2aAWvMrlpwvE
Female and Male Maine Coons...
Maine Coon cats have several nicknames that people have bestowed upon them in direct relation to their personality traits. They are called the “gentle giants” and the “dogs of the cat world”. They are very intelligent friendly cats. They are also very playful and curious.
These large sized cats are outgoing and socialize well with both people and other animals. They are curious and love to interact with people and other pets.
Maine Coon Size
The male Maine Coon is larger than usually. The size of a full grown male Coon cat is typically 20-30 pounds, while the female averages between 10-15 pounds. The height of the male cat is 10-16 inches and be about 40 inches long. The female can stand at about 8-14 inches tall and be the same length as the male (these averages vary greatly).
At the larger end of the spectrum a coon cat can easily measure 45 inches plus long and 30 lbs.
Male Cats
Most owners of Main Coons will agree that the males of the breed are far more outgoing than the females are. The males are larger and will go out of their way to entertain their human companions. They are comical and are typically the life of the party.
The females are also quite outgoing but initially will seem a bit “cat-like” and aloof to strangers. The males are more free-wheeling and looking for a good time with everyone, friends and strangers alike are potential playmates for them.
Female Cats
The female Coon cats are nice to be around. They are also outgoing, once they get to know you. They are highly intelligent and playful. Both the males and the females have been described as being docile and easy to train.
Both Genders
They are both considered excellent “mousers”. They like to hunt and spend time being enticed to chase so it is very important that they have toys available. They are not aggressive with children or other cats, but they can certainly hold their own in an argument so it is always best to introduce them to a new cat with supervision. They are very accepting of new circumstances.
If you come across a Maine Coon that is not friendly or seems to feel a bit nervous they are very likely coming from a bad situation–that’s how rare it is to find one that does not want to make friends.
They are referred to as the dogs of the cat world because their size is that of a dog AND because they display dog-like traits when it comes to loyalty to their family. They will accept the whole family as their own but will be especially loyal to the person that cares for them.
Overall this is a great breed that is simply a joy to be around.
Maine Coon cats have several nicknames that people have bestowed upon them in direct relation to their personality traits. They are called the “gentle giants” and the “dogs of the cat world”. They are very intelligent friendly cats. They are also very playful and curious.
These large sized cats are outgoing and socialize well with both people and other animals. They are curious and love to interact with people and other pets.
Maine Coon Size
The male Maine Coon is larger than usually. The size of a full grown male Coon cat is typically 20-30 pounds, while the female averages between 10-15 pounds. The height of the male cat is 10-16 inches and be about 40 inches long. The female can stand at about 8-14 inches tall and be the same length as the male (these averages vary greatly).
At the larger end of the spectrum a coon cat can easily measure 45 inches plus long and 30 lbs.
Male Cats
Most owners of Main Coons will agree that the males of the breed are far more outgoing than the females are. The males are larger and will go out of their way to entertain their human companions. They are comical and are typically the life of the party.
The females are also quite outgoing but initially will seem a bit “cat-like” and aloof to strangers. The males are more free-wheeling and looking for a good time with everyone, friends and strangers alike are potential playmates for them.
Female Cats
The female Coon cats are nice to be around. They are also outgoing, once they get to know you. They are highly intelligent and playful. Both the males and the females have been described as being docile and easy to train.
Both Genders
They are both considered excellent “mousers”. They like to hunt and spend time being enticed to chase so it is very important that they have toys available. They are not aggressive with children or other cats, but they can certainly hold their own in an argument so it is always best to introduce them to a new cat with supervision. They are very accepting of new circumstances.
If you come across a Maine Coon that is not friendly or seems to feel a bit nervous they are very likely coming from a bad situation–that’s how rare it is to find one that does not want to make friends.
They are referred to as the dogs of the cat world because their size is that of a dog AND because they display dog-like traits when it comes to loyalty to their family. They will accept the whole family as their own but will be especially loyal to the person that cares for them.
Overall this is a great breed that is simply a joy to be around.
Cat Allergies; Are Maine Coon Cats Hypoallergenic?
Cats are well-loved for a million different reasons. They’re not only adorable and loving. They also have proven wellness benefits for their owners and their families. Having a cat at home has given a great number of people a better quality of life. Cats have stress-relieving qualities and just simply makes their owners live a happier life overall. Even just petting your cat can already ease away some of the stress and make you feel better in a jiffy.
Just imagine having a charming Maine Coon cat at home with you. Maine Coon cats are loving and loyal cats. They enjoy spending a lot of time with their owner and just being nearby ready for snuggle. They have such playful personalities too. Playing with a Maine Coon cat can surely brighten up a gloomy day.
Cat Allergies
Unfortunately, despite these benefits there are people who couldn’t have cats even when they want to. It’s because they’re allergic to cats. For somebody who is aware of this condition beforehand, it’s not much of a problem. But there are people who find out about being allergic when they already have a cat that they love. It can be heartbreaking to decide whether to keep their beloved cat. Some people even choose to live with the symptoms and learn to manage it so that they wouldn’t have to let their cat go.
What Causes Cat Allergies
While some people may think that they are allergic to a cat’s fur, it’s not actually the fur that causes the reaction. Usually the allergens come from a cat’s dead skin called dander. It can also be from their salivary glands or urine. When the cat grooms, the proteins from their saliva get into contact with dander. Exposure to these allergens can cause an allergic person mild to severe symptoms and so, treatment will also vary.
Symptoms and Treatment of Cat Allergies
When exposed to allergens from cats, symptoms may vary depending on exposure and how allergic a person is. Some common symptoms are runny/stuffy nose, swollen red eyes, sneezing and wheezing, coughing, itchy throat, rashes on the face, neck and chest. It can also cause asthma for some people.
As they say, prevention is better than cure. If allergic to cats, it will be good to avoid or at least lower exposure to the allergens. If there’s a cat in the house, thorough cleaning can help to ensure allergens like dander don’t collect in some areas. Wash hands right away after touching the cat. Restricting the cat from certain areas of the house like the bedroom of the allergic person can also be a good idea. Bathing and grooming the cat regularly can also help reduce the amount of allergens in the air.
Are Maine coons hypoallergenic?
Maine Coon cats are well loved by a lot of people. However, there is no indication that Maine Coon cats produce low levels of allergens too. With that, the simple answer is no, they are not hypoallergenic. If a person’s cat allergies is severe, it may be for the best to avoid owning a Maine Coon cat. Maine Coon cats have thick fur and some possibly shed a lot of it at certain times of the year.
http://mainecoon.org/cat-allergies-maine-coon-cats-hypoallergenic/
Cats are well-loved for a million different reasons. They’re not only adorable and loving. They also have proven wellness benefits for their owners and their families. Having a cat at home has given a great number of people a better quality of life. Cats have stress-relieving qualities and just simply makes their owners live a happier life overall. Even just petting your cat can already ease away some of the stress and make you feel better in a jiffy.
Just imagine having a charming Maine Coon cat at home with you. Maine Coon cats are loving and loyal cats. They enjoy spending a lot of time with their owner and just being nearby ready for snuggle. They have such playful personalities too. Playing with a Maine Coon cat can surely brighten up a gloomy day.
Cat Allergies
Unfortunately, despite these benefits there are people who couldn’t have cats even when they want to. It’s because they’re allergic to cats. For somebody who is aware of this condition beforehand, it’s not much of a problem. But there are people who find out about being allergic when they already have a cat that they love. It can be heartbreaking to decide whether to keep their beloved cat. Some people even choose to live with the symptoms and learn to manage it so that they wouldn’t have to let their cat go.
What Causes Cat Allergies
While some people may think that they are allergic to a cat’s fur, it’s not actually the fur that causes the reaction. Usually the allergens come from a cat’s dead skin called dander. It can also be from their salivary glands or urine. When the cat grooms, the proteins from their saliva get into contact with dander. Exposure to these allergens can cause an allergic person mild to severe symptoms and so, treatment will also vary.
Symptoms and Treatment of Cat Allergies
When exposed to allergens from cats, symptoms may vary depending on exposure and how allergic a person is. Some common symptoms are runny/stuffy nose, swollen red eyes, sneezing and wheezing, coughing, itchy throat, rashes on the face, neck and chest. It can also cause asthma for some people.
As they say, prevention is better than cure. If allergic to cats, it will be good to avoid or at least lower exposure to the allergens. If there’s a cat in the house, thorough cleaning can help to ensure allergens like dander don’t collect in some areas. Wash hands right away after touching the cat. Restricting the cat from certain areas of the house like the bedroom of the allergic person can also be a good idea. Bathing and grooming the cat regularly can also help reduce the amount of allergens in the air.
Are Maine coons hypoallergenic?
Maine Coon cats are well loved by a lot of people. However, there is no indication that Maine Coon cats produce low levels of allergens too. With that, the simple answer is no, they are not hypoallergenic. If a person’s cat allergies is severe, it may be for the best to avoid owning a Maine Coon cat. Maine Coon cats have thick fur and some possibly shed a lot of it at certain times of the year.
http://mainecoon.org/cat-allergies-maine-coon-cats-hypoallergenic/
Kat and Jerome hanging out in their sinks.
Maine Coons and Water!
The Maine Coon is one of the cat breeds that actually love water. They like playing with the water in the water bowl, they love lying in the shower when it is still wet and they like to rub their head on your legs after you come out of the shower. A lot of Maine Coon cats actually like to swim as well. Besides their appearance, this is another reason why the Maine Coon is called Maine Coon. Because they like water like raccoons and look similar when playing with it.
Perhaps this cat breed's fearlessness of water is due to the quality of their thick coats, which are partially water repellent.
Water Bowls...
Our coons are known to make huge messes with their water bowls. I have some that will dig like crazy in them. We use the Neater Feeder to help with the water spills and splashes. I also put down a mat underneath as well.
The Maine Coon is one of the cat breeds that actually love water. They like playing with the water in the water bowl, they love lying in the shower when it is still wet and they like to rub their head on your legs after you come out of the shower. A lot of Maine Coon cats actually like to swim as well. Besides their appearance, this is another reason why the Maine Coon is called Maine Coon. Because they like water like raccoons and look similar when playing with it.
Perhaps this cat breed's fearlessness of water is due to the quality of their thick coats, which are partially water repellent.
Water Bowls...
Our coons are known to make huge messes with their water bowls. I have some that will dig like crazy in them. We use the Neater Feeder to help with the water spills and splashes. I also put down a mat underneath as well.
About Maine Coon Polydactyls
Everyone loves a polydactyl cat! They are so unique and endearing! Did you know that early in the breed's development, Maine Coons were often polydactyls? Because of this, there is a common belief that there is still a connection between polydactyl cats and this breed.
When breeding a polydactyl Maine Coon to a regular Maine Coon, 40 to 50 percent of the kittens will be polydactyl.
A polydactyl Maine coon is a Maine Coon in every characteristic and with extra toes. This word means multi-toed, and the extra-large paws are nick-named double-paws, because the paws are usually double-wide in size. They can walk through snow more easily, hence another nick-name of snowshoe cat; but most often though, they are simply called polys.
A natural anomaly, the polydactyl dominate gene in Maine Coons is a simple autosomal, meaning not linked to a dominate gene. The Pd gene is a harmless genetic trait that is not to be associated with other anomalies. Because of this, you must have a polydactyl parent to have a polydactyl kitten.
There are no documented ill effects of the polydactyl gene in the Maine Coon cat. Much scientific research data collected has suggested that the polydactyl Maine Coon is a more preferred trait in the working breed for health and vigor. Many non-polydactyl Maine Coons have a polydactyl member of their genetic lines in their pedigrees, and breeding these polydactyl cats is still fully accepted and recognized as purebred worldwide. They can be registered with any official cat association. When looking over a Pedigree, you can see all the polydactyl Maine Coons in the pedigree because they will have a P. somewhere in the name.
Why Aren't Most Maine Coons Polydactyls?
Good question! This trait is not allowed in “show cats” so it is not common. Many breeders participate in showing their cats. That's a big part of what it's all about!
It is unfortunate that a magnificent feline would be denied the chance to become a champion just because this trait is deemed a "fault." Because of this, there are groups and organizations with an eye to bringing Polydactyl cats back into the show ring.
There are breeders who specialize in polydactyl Maine Coon cat and kittens. They are fully registered, pedigreed, purebred cats. Every bit a Maine Coon – plus some (extra toes, that is)!
So there you have it, the polydactyl cat is a healthy, hearty, and endearing cat! You want one, now, right?
The History of the Polydactyl Maine Coon
Maine Coons come from Maine and polydactyl Maine Coons most especially show their Maine heritage visibly in their extra-wide, multi-toed
paws.
Descended from cats that hardy seafaring people chose, our present-day polydactyl Maine Coons are a direct visible genetic link to the beautiful heritage of maritime family life. A polydactyl Maine Coon from a Kennebec River town or village has living visible proof of its original native Maine heritage. This heritage goes back through the generations of kittens possibly 300 years or more, to the earliest Maine cats, when the polydactyl gene became intertwined with and irrevocably part of the original Maine Coon.
Purified by centuries of natural selection, polydactyl Maine Coons embody the most distinct and visible proof possible of the long and esteemed heritage of this native Maine Coon breed.
A polydactyl Maine coon is a Maine Coon in every characteristic and with extra toes. This word means multi-toed, and the extra-large paws are nick-named double-paws, because the paws are usually double-wide in size. They can walk through snow more easily, hence another nick-name of snowshoe cat; but most often though, they are simply called polys.
The history of Maine's polydactyl Maine Coon tugs and whispers from the porches of stately sea captains homes and from memories of old ships and schooners; one wonders, how did the double-pawed cats get here?
The visible heritage embodied in a polydactyl Maine Coon stems from the olden days of Maine, when hardy self-reliant families sailed and settled along the shores. The distinctly unique Maine coastal environment favored the origins of this breed. The byways, sloping shoresides, and deeper coves were launching ways for locally built schooners and other vessels. Salt-water farms lined the shores where we have forgotten now, that everyday people did business by sail with canvas and masts and wind, not trucks and gasoline. The highways of yore were the rivers and the sea. Maine has excellent deep and navigable rivers. The Kennebec River, for example, is famous for the number of vessels built and launched from its shores. The talented Maine maritime families and the vastness of the trade they dealt in are the real reason it is the Maine Coon Cat. This breed was developed in the Maine coastal regions specifically as a result of ship cats coming home to families who prized them for their usefulness aboard ship as well as on the farm and around the wharves. The years following the Revolutionary War were likely the heyday of the Maine Cats development, as the state was known for its bustling shipyards. Downeasters sailed with wheat world-wide, clippers sailed to China and back, but mostly the trusty schooners carried vital local maritime cargoes; as hundreds of various Maine-built vessels were launched every year from riverside shipyards.
Cats were just as common at working waterfronts as dories, and are still to be found living free at the working waterfront area of Portland Harbor, for example. When Kennebec cargo schooners sailed to Boston and back with lumber, bricks and supplies, cats were simply on board to control rodents, and for pleasure. Boston Harbor has been scientifically designated the arrival point in this country of the polydactyl cat, and location of the first polydactyls in America. It was an easy matter for the cute poly cats to be accepted aboard the Maine-bound vessels, for luck as well as something new to share with family at home. The Boston wharfside poly cats and Maine-bound schooner cats mingled as they pleased.
In this manner, the poly gene was introduced into the isolated early Maine Coon gene pool; protected as it were, by villages united only by sea or horse-drawn wagon. The early Maine Cats were able to breed pure and without dilution, and the polydactyl gene became intertwined with the other characteristics, back in the chill coastal and riverside locations, where the pure strain of Maine Coon was developed. Long-coated, rugged bodied Maine Coons naturally developed for survival, as a working cat that people treasured, and their adaptation to the cold winters and chilly ocean air resulted in eventual recognition as a legendary distinct breed.
The poly Maine Coon is more adept, and often smarter, because of the increased ability that the shape of their paws gives them. Their larger paws enabled them to survive in conditions requiring them to catch their own food. Some of them always survived and to this day the dominant gene, polydactylism, continues to be present in a certain percentage of native Maine Coons. Being still visible, it is likely present in the same percentages now as in the earlier times. It can be estimated rather accurately from genetics rules that a constant minimum of 25% of early native Maine Coons would have been polydactyl, and perhaps more in some isolated locations and the many coastal islands.
Thus the early Maine Cat developed into the traditional type and style still seen in todays moderate Maine Coons. These early Maine cats were known as 'Maine cats' or 'cooncat' in the mid-1800's (in a story by a celebrated Maine author of that period, whose cat named "Polly", grew up together with her.) Of course, normal-footed Maine Coon Cats developed concurrently, often as litter mates; and were the feline stars in the first CFA Cat Shows in the USA in the early 1900s.
Everyone loves a polydactyl cat! They are so unique and endearing! Did you know that early in the breed's development, Maine Coons were often polydactyls? Because of this, there is a common belief that there is still a connection between polydactyl cats and this breed.
When breeding a polydactyl Maine Coon to a regular Maine Coon, 40 to 50 percent of the kittens will be polydactyl.
A polydactyl Maine coon is a Maine Coon in every characteristic and with extra toes. This word means multi-toed, and the extra-large paws are nick-named double-paws, because the paws are usually double-wide in size. They can walk through snow more easily, hence another nick-name of snowshoe cat; but most often though, they are simply called polys.
A natural anomaly, the polydactyl dominate gene in Maine Coons is a simple autosomal, meaning not linked to a dominate gene. The Pd gene is a harmless genetic trait that is not to be associated with other anomalies. Because of this, you must have a polydactyl parent to have a polydactyl kitten.
There are no documented ill effects of the polydactyl gene in the Maine Coon cat. Much scientific research data collected has suggested that the polydactyl Maine Coon is a more preferred trait in the working breed for health and vigor. Many non-polydactyl Maine Coons have a polydactyl member of their genetic lines in their pedigrees, and breeding these polydactyl cats is still fully accepted and recognized as purebred worldwide. They can be registered with any official cat association. When looking over a Pedigree, you can see all the polydactyl Maine Coons in the pedigree because they will have a P. somewhere in the name.
Why Aren't Most Maine Coons Polydactyls?
Good question! This trait is not allowed in “show cats” so it is not common. Many breeders participate in showing their cats. That's a big part of what it's all about!
It is unfortunate that a magnificent feline would be denied the chance to become a champion just because this trait is deemed a "fault." Because of this, there are groups and organizations with an eye to bringing Polydactyl cats back into the show ring.
There are breeders who specialize in polydactyl Maine Coon cat and kittens. They are fully registered, pedigreed, purebred cats. Every bit a Maine Coon – plus some (extra toes, that is)!
So there you have it, the polydactyl cat is a healthy, hearty, and endearing cat! You want one, now, right?
The History of the Polydactyl Maine Coon
Maine Coons come from Maine and polydactyl Maine Coons most especially show their Maine heritage visibly in their extra-wide, multi-toed
paws.
Descended from cats that hardy seafaring people chose, our present-day polydactyl Maine Coons are a direct visible genetic link to the beautiful heritage of maritime family life. A polydactyl Maine Coon from a Kennebec River town or village has living visible proof of its original native Maine heritage. This heritage goes back through the generations of kittens possibly 300 years or more, to the earliest Maine cats, when the polydactyl gene became intertwined with and irrevocably part of the original Maine Coon.
Purified by centuries of natural selection, polydactyl Maine Coons embody the most distinct and visible proof possible of the long and esteemed heritage of this native Maine Coon breed.
A polydactyl Maine coon is a Maine Coon in every characteristic and with extra toes. This word means multi-toed, and the extra-large paws are nick-named double-paws, because the paws are usually double-wide in size. They can walk through snow more easily, hence another nick-name of snowshoe cat; but most often though, they are simply called polys.
The history of Maine's polydactyl Maine Coon tugs and whispers from the porches of stately sea captains homes and from memories of old ships and schooners; one wonders, how did the double-pawed cats get here?
The visible heritage embodied in a polydactyl Maine Coon stems from the olden days of Maine, when hardy self-reliant families sailed and settled along the shores. The distinctly unique Maine coastal environment favored the origins of this breed. The byways, sloping shoresides, and deeper coves were launching ways for locally built schooners and other vessels. Salt-water farms lined the shores where we have forgotten now, that everyday people did business by sail with canvas and masts and wind, not trucks and gasoline. The highways of yore were the rivers and the sea. Maine has excellent deep and navigable rivers. The Kennebec River, for example, is famous for the number of vessels built and launched from its shores. The talented Maine maritime families and the vastness of the trade they dealt in are the real reason it is the Maine Coon Cat. This breed was developed in the Maine coastal regions specifically as a result of ship cats coming home to families who prized them for their usefulness aboard ship as well as on the farm and around the wharves. The years following the Revolutionary War were likely the heyday of the Maine Cats development, as the state was known for its bustling shipyards. Downeasters sailed with wheat world-wide, clippers sailed to China and back, but mostly the trusty schooners carried vital local maritime cargoes; as hundreds of various Maine-built vessels were launched every year from riverside shipyards.
Cats were just as common at working waterfronts as dories, and are still to be found living free at the working waterfront area of Portland Harbor, for example. When Kennebec cargo schooners sailed to Boston and back with lumber, bricks and supplies, cats were simply on board to control rodents, and for pleasure. Boston Harbor has been scientifically designated the arrival point in this country of the polydactyl cat, and location of the first polydactyls in America. It was an easy matter for the cute poly cats to be accepted aboard the Maine-bound vessels, for luck as well as something new to share with family at home. The Boston wharfside poly cats and Maine-bound schooner cats mingled as they pleased.
In this manner, the poly gene was introduced into the isolated early Maine Coon gene pool; protected as it were, by villages united only by sea or horse-drawn wagon. The early Maine Cats were able to breed pure and without dilution, and the polydactyl gene became intertwined with the other characteristics, back in the chill coastal and riverside locations, where the pure strain of Maine Coon was developed. Long-coated, rugged bodied Maine Coons naturally developed for survival, as a working cat that people treasured, and their adaptation to the cold winters and chilly ocean air resulted in eventual recognition as a legendary distinct breed.
The poly Maine Coon is more adept, and often smarter, because of the increased ability that the shape of their paws gives them. Their larger paws enabled them to survive in conditions requiring them to catch their own food. Some of them always survived and to this day the dominant gene, polydactylism, continues to be present in a certain percentage of native Maine Coons. Being still visible, it is likely present in the same percentages now as in the earlier times. It can be estimated rather accurately from genetics rules that a constant minimum of 25% of early native Maine Coons would have been polydactyl, and perhaps more in some isolated locations and the many coastal islands.
Thus the early Maine Cat developed into the traditional type and style still seen in todays moderate Maine Coons. These early Maine cats were known as 'Maine cats' or 'cooncat' in the mid-1800's (in a story by a celebrated Maine author of that period, whose cat named "Polly", grew up together with her.) Of course, normal-footed Maine Coon Cats developed concurrently, often as litter mates; and were the feline stars in the first CFA Cat Shows in the USA in the early 1900s.
When people meet your 6 month old kitten, they may be shocked that it's still a baby! Maine Coons start to level out somewhere between 9-14 months; though still growing the maturation process slows and they fill out more subtly until the age of 4 or 5 years.
Some people are confused about the coat as well, as many Maine Coon cats seen in the show hall appear to have a mostly short coat, with some length and fluff around the belly and britches, and may have no noticeable ruff. These will generally be your younger adults and seen in Championship, which are cats that have not been altered. Some Maine Coons will never grow a full and luxurious coat until they have been either spayed or neutered. MC's may also vary on when they grow their "seasonal" coat, often known as full coat. Logic would suggest they be in full coat over the colder winter months, but this is not always the case. Some cats look like a domestic short hair with excess belly fur all winter and grow a long lustrous coat in May, while others are mostly bald until November when they look like they're ready to face the arctic!
At what age your Maine Coon kitten starts to grow it's shaggy coat can vary greatly. Some kittens develop coat almost immediately and look like miniature MC adults at 3 or 4 months, while others will start getting britches and belly fur around 6 months and a ruff will start to fill in as late as 1 year, provided the kitten has been altered before 8 months of age. Maine Coons get their adult fur in between age 2 to 4 years old.
Do not be concerned if your cat doesn't look like a Maine Coon all at once. The variations of growth patterns are as varied as they are among different families of humans. No, not all MC's will look the same, but the classic shaggy coat, square muzzle and big expressive eyes will all come together eventually, the cat will be your loving and ever-present companion! You may be initially attracted to the Maine Coon for their rugged good looks, but you'll fall in love with the personality.
Maine Coons are very interactive with people. Around the ages of 6 months to a year old they can go through a stand offish faze similar to a teenager. This is called the teenager stage. As they mature they will become more like a lap cat and much more affectionate. This is usually around ages 2 to 3 years old. As a kitten they are very busy!
Fun Fact:
In 2010 the Guinness World Records accepted a purebred male Maine Coon as the "Longest Cat" measuring 48.5 inches from the tip of the nose to the tip of the tale.
Some people are confused about the coat as well, as many Maine Coon cats seen in the show hall appear to have a mostly short coat, with some length and fluff around the belly and britches, and may have no noticeable ruff. These will generally be your younger adults and seen in Championship, which are cats that have not been altered. Some Maine Coons will never grow a full and luxurious coat until they have been either spayed or neutered. MC's may also vary on when they grow their "seasonal" coat, often known as full coat. Logic would suggest they be in full coat over the colder winter months, but this is not always the case. Some cats look like a domestic short hair with excess belly fur all winter and grow a long lustrous coat in May, while others are mostly bald until November when they look like they're ready to face the arctic!
At what age your Maine Coon kitten starts to grow it's shaggy coat can vary greatly. Some kittens develop coat almost immediately and look like miniature MC adults at 3 or 4 months, while others will start getting britches and belly fur around 6 months and a ruff will start to fill in as late as 1 year, provided the kitten has been altered before 8 months of age. Maine Coons get their adult fur in between age 2 to 4 years old.
Do not be concerned if your cat doesn't look like a Maine Coon all at once. The variations of growth patterns are as varied as they are among different families of humans. No, not all MC's will look the same, but the classic shaggy coat, square muzzle and big expressive eyes will all come together eventually, the cat will be your loving and ever-present companion! You may be initially attracted to the Maine Coon for their rugged good looks, but you'll fall in love with the personality.
Maine Coons are very interactive with people. Around the ages of 6 months to a year old they can go through a stand offish faze similar to a teenager. This is called the teenager stage. As they mature they will become more like a lap cat and much more affectionate. This is usually around ages 2 to 3 years old. As a kitten they are very busy!
Fun Fact:
In 2010 the Guinness World Records accepted a purebred male Maine Coon as the "Longest Cat" measuring 48.5 inches from the tip of the nose to the tip of the tale.
Litter box Tips for Maine Coon Cats
Although hormonal changes or undue stress may be the root of your cat’s litterbox mess-ups, five smart decisions on your part can potentially remedy a significant number of your cat’s litter problems.
Missing the Box
Urine marking is an anxiety and stress-induced condition that causes cats to urinate on rather unusual surfaces, but once recognized, it can be treated by making environmental adjustments, encouraging behavioral changes or using medication.
Although most male cats will start marking their territory when they reach puberty, “if neutered, this comes to a halt in 90% of cases,” says Nicholas H. Dodman, BVMS, Dipl. ACVB, ACVA, professor of behavioral pharmacology at Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine in North Grafton, Massachusetts. Females can also mark, especially when they come into heat. Female marking also ceases in 95% of spayed cats. “The purpose of urine marking isn’t to empty the bladder, but to send a signal,” Dr. Dodman says.
Some urine marking occurs in already neutered or spayed cats, therefore ruling out hormonal causes. Instead, urine marking is usually a “territorial anxiety caused by other cats either inside the house or a frequent window-visitor from the neighborhood,” Dr. Dodman says.
Other anxiety triggers often include the arrival of a new baby, workmen in the house, quarreling family members or anything that may induce stress. “It’s a dead giveaway if your cat starts urinating on vertical surfaces, such as the wall or drapes,” Dr. Dodman adds. But your cat may also mark on other unusual surfaces, such as on the laundry, the computer keyboard or shoes.
To narrow down the source of your cat’s anxiety, note where it tends to eliminate. “If your cat is urinating around the window, you can guess it’s stress caused by an outside visitor,” Dr. Dodman says. If your cat urinates on a particular family member’s clothing, “it could be that the cat is very attached to that person and goes on the clothing when that person leaves for work,” he speculates.
Work with your vet on the best course of action for your cat, but Dr. Dodman insists that “these days, there’s no reason why any cat with a litter box problem can’t be cured either completely or almost completely, either by behavioral adjustments or medication.”
We also use Feliway plug ins to help bring any stress down. This can also help prevent accidents outside the litter box.
Litter box Size
Select an appropriately sized litter box for your cat. Make sure the box is large enough for your Maine Coon to urinate in one corner and defecate in another. Maine Coons are big cats so bigger the better! We use a huge black boxes, which are cement mixer boxes, purchased from Menards, Lowe's or any place similar. We also use the Litter Robot and Catit Jumbo hooded cat pan. The Robot litter box will not trigger unless your cat is at least 5 lbs. So having another litter box is ideal at first for younger kittens.
*The kittens that leave us will be use to the Menards litter box. If you want to use a Litter Robot or a hooded litter box, I suggest putting a regular litter box next to the one you want them to use. Some kittens will use any litter box without any issues, while others might be scared of it and will go in the house instead. This will help with the easy transition to prevent accidents.
Litter Choice
Choose a comfortable, scoopable litter. Many litter types are available, so you might have to experiment to find one your cat likes. Litter that clumps together makes it easy for you to scoop (hence its commonly referred to as “scoopable litter”) and keep up with frequent cleanings. We have tried many brands and our Coons have not been picky. The litter we use now we chose because of price and helps with smells having multiple cats. We use
Kittens are introduced to very small litter boxes around 4 weeks old. When they are about 6-7 weeks old they start using the big litter box on their own. I gradually take away the small litter boxes over time and they are fully litter trained when they leave us. The litter they are using is Arm & Hammer when they leave us.
Clean and Neat
Scoop at least once a day. More is even better as cats like a clean litter box. When thoroughly cleaning, dump, wash with dish soap and let it soak in diluted bleach water for 10 minutes. Dry and refill. Bleach cannot be used on the Robot litter box but dish soap is okay.
Litter box Placement
Make litter boxes accessible and convenient. Your first instinct may be to tuck your cat’s litter box in the corner of the basement where it’s hidden away from guests. But by doing so, you’re actually making it inconvenient for your cat to use its litter box. This also makes it harder for you to tell when it’s dirty. Instead, place litter boxes on a main floor where your cat can easily find (and use) them.
Plenty of Boxes: Provide enough potty places. Most of us consider more than one bathroom in our living space a necessity, and your Maine Coon is no different. The rule of thumb is to have one more litter box than you do cat: for instance, three litter boxes for two cats. But even if you only have one cat it should have at least two designated potty spots.
By making these simple changes, you’ll probably see fewer accidents and you’ll definitely have a happier, more appreciative cat!
When bringing your kitten home make an area that is just for them with their litter box, food, toys, etc. They will feel more comfortable having their own area at first. This will help prevent accidents as well.
Although hormonal changes or undue stress may be the root of your cat’s litterbox mess-ups, five smart decisions on your part can potentially remedy a significant number of your cat’s litter problems.
Missing the Box
Urine marking is an anxiety and stress-induced condition that causes cats to urinate on rather unusual surfaces, but once recognized, it can be treated by making environmental adjustments, encouraging behavioral changes or using medication.
Although most male cats will start marking their territory when they reach puberty, “if neutered, this comes to a halt in 90% of cases,” says Nicholas H. Dodman, BVMS, Dipl. ACVB, ACVA, professor of behavioral pharmacology at Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine in North Grafton, Massachusetts. Females can also mark, especially when they come into heat. Female marking also ceases in 95% of spayed cats. “The purpose of urine marking isn’t to empty the bladder, but to send a signal,” Dr. Dodman says.
Some urine marking occurs in already neutered or spayed cats, therefore ruling out hormonal causes. Instead, urine marking is usually a “territorial anxiety caused by other cats either inside the house or a frequent window-visitor from the neighborhood,” Dr. Dodman says.
Other anxiety triggers often include the arrival of a new baby, workmen in the house, quarreling family members or anything that may induce stress. “It’s a dead giveaway if your cat starts urinating on vertical surfaces, such as the wall or drapes,” Dr. Dodman adds. But your cat may also mark on other unusual surfaces, such as on the laundry, the computer keyboard or shoes.
To narrow down the source of your cat’s anxiety, note where it tends to eliminate. “If your cat is urinating around the window, you can guess it’s stress caused by an outside visitor,” Dr. Dodman says. If your cat urinates on a particular family member’s clothing, “it could be that the cat is very attached to that person and goes on the clothing when that person leaves for work,” he speculates.
Work with your vet on the best course of action for your cat, but Dr. Dodman insists that “these days, there’s no reason why any cat with a litter box problem can’t be cured either completely or almost completely, either by behavioral adjustments or medication.”
We also use Feliway plug ins to help bring any stress down. This can also help prevent accidents outside the litter box.
Litter box Size
Select an appropriately sized litter box for your cat. Make sure the box is large enough for your Maine Coon to urinate in one corner and defecate in another. Maine Coons are big cats so bigger the better! We use a huge black boxes, which are cement mixer boxes, purchased from Menards, Lowe's or any place similar. We also use the Litter Robot and Catit Jumbo hooded cat pan. The Robot litter box will not trigger unless your cat is at least 5 lbs. So having another litter box is ideal at first for younger kittens.
*The kittens that leave us will be use to the Menards litter box. If you want to use a Litter Robot or a hooded litter box, I suggest putting a regular litter box next to the one you want them to use. Some kittens will use any litter box without any issues, while others might be scared of it and will go in the house instead. This will help with the easy transition to prevent accidents.
Litter Choice
Choose a comfortable, scoopable litter. Many litter types are available, so you might have to experiment to find one your cat likes. Litter that clumps together makes it easy for you to scoop (hence its commonly referred to as “scoopable litter”) and keep up with frequent cleanings. We have tried many brands and our Coons have not been picky. The litter we use now we chose because of price and helps with smells having multiple cats. We use
Kittens are introduced to very small litter boxes around 4 weeks old. When they are about 6-7 weeks old they start using the big litter box on their own. I gradually take away the small litter boxes over time and they are fully litter trained when they leave us. The litter they are using is Arm & Hammer when they leave us.
Clean and Neat
Scoop at least once a day. More is even better as cats like a clean litter box. When thoroughly cleaning, dump, wash with dish soap and let it soak in diluted bleach water for 10 minutes. Dry and refill. Bleach cannot be used on the Robot litter box but dish soap is okay.
Litter box Placement
Make litter boxes accessible and convenient. Your first instinct may be to tuck your cat’s litter box in the corner of the basement where it’s hidden away from guests. But by doing so, you’re actually making it inconvenient for your cat to use its litter box. This also makes it harder for you to tell when it’s dirty. Instead, place litter boxes on a main floor where your cat can easily find (and use) them.
Plenty of Boxes: Provide enough potty places. Most of us consider more than one bathroom in our living space a necessity, and your Maine Coon is no different. The rule of thumb is to have one more litter box than you do cat: for instance, three litter boxes for two cats. But even if you only have one cat it should have at least two designated potty spots.
By making these simple changes, you’ll probably see fewer accidents and you’ll definitely have a happier, more appreciative cat!
When bringing your kitten home make an area that is just for them with their litter box, food, toys, etc. They will feel more comfortable having their own area at first. This will help prevent accidents as well.
When Should I spay/ neuter my Maine Coon kitten?
This is a mix controversial about when Maine Coons should be fixed. From my experience this is when I suggest to get it done. Most vets will not do it till age 4-6 months old anyways.
Females: The earlier the better. Females are prone to Pyometra. It's an infection in the uterus and it can be deadly if you do not catch it in time. Even after surgery, it does not mean they will make it through. I've rushed many females for this surgery and I tell you, you do not want to go through this. Females usually do not go into their first heat till closer to age one but I've had one female start at 4 months old. Do not wait to have your females spayed.
Males: Our first male started spraying days before 9 months old. So I would say have it scheduled by 8 months old. I know some breeders say wait till age one. Honestly I've not seen a difference in male size by waiting a few months longer. If they start spraying it can be very hard to get them to stop. Best to stop the habit before it happens. Spraying can also hereditary so it's best not to wait and see. The smell is horrible and hard to get out. If the Father does it, the kittens will as well. The longer you wait in males to fix them and they hit puberty and you are not a breeder, this can cause aggression. For breeders, if you do not have enough females for your male, it can happen.
Females: The earlier the better. Females are prone to Pyometra. It's an infection in the uterus and it can be deadly if you do not catch it in time. Even after surgery, it does not mean they will make it through. I've rushed many females for this surgery and I tell you, you do not want to go through this. Females usually do not go into their first heat till closer to age one but I've had one female start at 4 months old. Do not wait to have your females spayed.
Males: Our first male started spraying days before 9 months old. So I would say have it scheduled by 8 months old. I know some breeders say wait till age one. Honestly I've not seen a difference in male size by waiting a few months longer. If they start spraying it can be very hard to get them to stop. Best to stop the habit before it happens. Spraying can also hereditary so it's best not to wait and see. The smell is horrible and hard to get out. If the Father does it, the kittens will as well. The longer you wait in males to fix them and they hit puberty and you are not a breeder, this can cause aggression. For breeders, if you do not have enough females for your male, it can happen.
When should you spay/ neuter your Maine Coon kitten?
Myth: "Male Cats Are Prone To Bladder Infections"
Grain free is not the way to feed your cats
The Truth:
Young Cat “LUTD” Is Rarely Bacterial, and... Lower Urinary Tract Disease Affects Both Sexes Equally Straining in the box, urinating frequently, crying while peeing — these are signs of urinary pain. Feline lower urinary tract discomfort is caused most commonly by abnormal and caustic urine chemistry, which results from elements present in most commercial cat foods. Bacterial bladder infections may present with identical symptoms, but are quite rare in non-Senior cats (and pretty unusual even in Seniors!) No gender difference exists.
Most feline urinary lower urinary tract disease is a direct result of both the presence and absence of specific cat food ingredients. Plant ingredients in cat food induce an alkaline urine pH. The absence of sufficient moisture creates a highly concentrated urine. Both alkalinity and high concentration are chemically irritating to the tender tissues of the lower urinary tract.
Dry cat foods lack crucially important moisture. Cats as a species are “thirst-impaired, and will not drink enough to make up for that lack. As a result, a dry-fed cat (even without other disease) will produce highly concentrated urine.
Plant material in cat food (such as peas, potatoes, cranberries, etc.) induces alkaline urine. Eating meat induces acidic urine, and so, as you might guess, normal cat urine is mildly acidic.
Healthy cat urine is both acidic and relatively dilute. Cats eating either prey or a meat-based prey-model derive plenty of water from their food. A diet containing sufficient fluid naturally results in a normal, relatively dilute urine.
When dry, plant-based foods create concentrated, alkaline urine, irritating crystals may form in the bladder. The alkalinity and high concentration alone are irritating. Crystal formation makes things even more uncomfortable.
Crystal formation is the primary cause of urinary obstructions. Urethral obstructions occur most often in male cats, simply because their long, narrow urethra can block up more easily than the female’s short, wide one. This has led to the myth that male cats are more prone to bladder problems. Male cats are indeed far more prone to obstructions, but NOT to infections.
Bladder infections in cats become more common with aging. As older cats develop diseases such as kidney failure or diabetes, their urine becomes abnormally dilute and can support bacterial growth better. This occurs equally in both sexes.
Unless your cat is elderly and has other disease processes, signs of urinary tract pain are almost never due to bladder infections. Giving antibiotics in the absence of a bacterial infection inflicts harm without any balancing benefit.
https://www.uniquelycats.com/myth/item.html/n/43
Young Cat “LUTD” Is Rarely Bacterial, and... Lower Urinary Tract Disease Affects Both Sexes Equally Straining in the box, urinating frequently, crying while peeing — these are signs of urinary pain. Feline lower urinary tract discomfort is caused most commonly by abnormal and caustic urine chemistry, which results from elements present in most commercial cat foods. Bacterial bladder infections may present with identical symptoms, but are quite rare in non-Senior cats (and pretty unusual even in Seniors!) No gender difference exists.
Most feline urinary lower urinary tract disease is a direct result of both the presence and absence of specific cat food ingredients. Plant ingredients in cat food induce an alkaline urine pH. The absence of sufficient moisture creates a highly concentrated urine. Both alkalinity and high concentration are chemically irritating to the tender tissues of the lower urinary tract.
Dry cat foods lack crucially important moisture. Cats as a species are “thirst-impaired, and will not drink enough to make up for that lack. As a result, a dry-fed cat (even without other disease) will produce highly concentrated urine.
Plant material in cat food (such as peas, potatoes, cranberries, etc.) induces alkaline urine. Eating meat induces acidic urine, and so, as you might guess, normal cat urine is mildly acidic.
Healthy cat urine is both acidic and relatively dilute. Cats eating either prey or a meat-based prey-model derive plenty of water from their food. A diet containing sufficient fluid naturally results in a normal, relatively dilute urine.
When dry, plant-based foods create concentrated, alkaline urine, irritating crystals may form in the bladder. The alkalinity and high concentration alone are irritating. Crystal formation makes things even more uncomfortable.
Crystal formation is the primary cause of urinary obstructions. Urethral obstructions occur most often in male cats, simply because their long, narrow urethra can block up more easily than the female’s short, wide one. This has led to the myth that male cats are more prone to bladder problems. Male cats are indeed far more prone to obstructions, but NOT to infections.
Bladder infections in cats become more common with aging. As older cats develop diseases such as kidney failure or diabetes, their urine becomes abnormally dilute and can support bacterial growth better. This occurs equally in both sexes.
Unless your cat is elderly and has other disease processes, signs of urinary tract pain are almost never due to bladder infections. Giving antibiotics in the absence of a bacterial infection inflicts harm without any balancing benefit.
https://www.uniquelycats.com/myth/item.html/n/43
Ketamine Anesthesia
Ketamine, also known by the brand names of Ketaset®, Ketaflo®, Vetalar® or Vetaket®, belongs to a class of drugs known as dissociative hypnotics and is similar to phencyclidine (PCP).
I'm in many groups for breeders and also from my vet they have said never to use Ketamine. As it can cause death in cats. It can also look like Maine Coons have HCM while under this anesthesia. It will cause them to go into heart failure or even enlarge their hearts. If you try to google this you will either find reports of how safe this stuff is or it's been erased. I wonder why that is? Is it because it makes companies too much money to take off the market? Probably. Most do not care about the health of animals or even people for that matter. I wanted to find the proof of what this does and why. This also affects many other breeds of cats. I've seen where others have written their own article about it. I've not come across one for Maine Coons. If your cat was happy, healthy, and had good blood work, no heart issues or murmurs prior to surgery, a lot of times Doctors will claim it's HCM. If the kitten came from health tested parents it's highly unlikely. There are other factors as well. I know food alone will cause heart failure in cats. I have that under "Cat Food" if you want to read that. But a healthy cat or kitten being put under with a needle can have a lot of side effects or allergic reactions. Gas is the best way to go. Also the mix of Ketamine and other drugs in combination will cause side effects, allergic reactions, or death in cats. Good luck trying to finding any science based article on that. Instead Doctor's like to point at the Breeder instead of looking at the cat in whole. I've come across some necropsy stories that it did in fact prove the anesthesia was the cause of death. Once Ketamine is in the system there is no reversal. They will have to wait it out and in hopes nothing has damaged them. It can change a cats personality temporarily or permanently.
Sometimes they will use these 3 together with sedation Hydromorphone IM, Ketamine IM, Medetomidine IM. There is also Dexdomitor and is similar to Ketamine. Any injected anesthesia can cause similar reactions to each other.
I'm going to post links to what I've come across.
Ketamine insert
file:///C:/Users/Gaming%20PC/Downloads/Ketamine_200-073-US-Label-leaflet-100_mgml-1-5-2.pdf
If this link doesn't work you can find it here...
https://www.dechra-us.com/our-products/us/companion-animal/cat/prescription/ketamine-hydrochloride-injection?fbclid=IwAR2FIGg6CXftCH4vZjUZEFKKr1REcI5h309MaeH9Uem0m5REfgmhH7y8YWA
This study was done on embryo animals. Ketamine predominantly causes cardiac enlargement.
https://bmcanesthesiol.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s12871-016-0188-z
This is from a Persian Breeder
https://pelaqitapersians.com/ketamine-kills-cats/?fbclid=IwAR1yrMvk_BGy1Vlb_NOXGbf-aCHhyaBMWCWX_JiItRmnn-uc_v4Fkr6OyMk
This is from a Savannah Breeder
Gas anesethia
Sevoflurane
One of the newest anesthesias on the market is Sevoflurane. It is fast-acting anesthesia that will result in a quick loss of consciousness. It has a quick wake-up time also. But, it is pricey and most Veterinarians are already using Isoflurane.
Isoflurane
Isofluorane safety helps veterinarians to administer good anesthesia in the modern day. Compared to straight ketamine it is head and shoulder above in safety. Older or compromised patients, pregnant patients, and those with heart problems benefit. Isoflurane takes a little longer to both lose and regain consciousness. Also, it is a little more cost-effective. So it is a good practice to use sevoflurane to induce anesthesia. Then switch to isoflurane to maintain anesthesia during the procedure.
The gasses are very common in human medicine but few veterinarian practices have both. The advantage of gas anesthesia is the control of the depth of the anesthesia. It can deepen it or lighten it as needed during a procedure. If there is a complication, the veterinarian may wake up the cat almost immediately if it is safe to do so. While there is no 100% safe anesthesia, gas anesthesia has the fewest associated risks. Propofol is the injectable of choice for some veterinary procedures. It is quick-acting, offers a rapid recovery period, and has few drug after-effects. Yet, for cats with certain liver diseases, propofol is not good since the liver metabolizes it.
https://www.savannahcatassociation.org/ketamine-savannah-cats/?fbclid=IwAR0OKzZqn0Ezn6yEmr8W2DBK9phMtqf6l1WwToAACSkI2Zig6zwjtUgyJzo
This is sad and should of never been done but Ketamine can be used to euthanize.
https://pictures-of-cats.org/usda-euthanised-cats-used-in-animal-testing-with-shot-of-ketamine-to-the-heart.html?fbclid=IwAR1ObIt2hYBXPKotr6w75ZlIM9NR9oryPJjWqLszuaHBxNklvp7R1VH9fzw
Ketamine is a known for horse tranquilizer, date rape drug, PCP. Here are some side effects.
https://www.drugs.com/illicit/ketamine.html?fbclid=IwAR2G5ZTOBJvwfmybCpn6gWeQrLFiiC8SNIm0q1BjUhuG4Vu8xqk70o5TK60
Its mechanism of action is not well understood. (but yet all these "scientific" articles shows testing, but it's not well known?)
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/mesh?term=Ketamine
Its mechanism of action is not well understood. (but yet all these "scientific" articles shows testing, but it's not well known?)
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/mesh?term=Ketamine
Why are there reactions to Ketamine? This is the first site I've found that really talks about the break down.
https://www.elysianbengals.com/post/2019/05/18/ketamine-and-cats
Cats can have an allergic reaction to any anesthesia.
What are Anesthesia Allergies?
Anesthesia allergic reactions occur almost immediately following the cat’s exposure to anesthesia, which means your cat will already be in the presence of a doctor when symptoms begin to show. Although hearing your cat suffered a complication during a medical procedure is unsettling, as long as the vet was monitoring your cat and treated the reaction quickly, your cat should fully recover.
If your cat is going to the vet for a procedure that requires the use of anesthesia, it’s normal to feel nervous. There are many risks associated with anesthesia, especially if your cat has certain health conditions or allergies. Unfortunately, you can’t tell if your cat has an anesthesia allergy until he has already had a reaction. Cats can be allergic to local or general anesthetics, and symptoms may vary depending on the severity of the allergy. Some cats will only experience a bit of swelling and irritation where the anesthesia was injected or applied topically, while others will begin to go into anaphylactic shock or cardiac arrest.
Symptoms of Anesthesia Allergies in CatsIf your cat is ever given local or general anesthetics during a medical procedure, the vet and his team of assistants will be closely monitoring him to look for signs of an allergic reaction, along with other complications. Some of the symptoms they are looking for can include:Causes of Anesthesia Allergies in Cats
- A drop in blood pressure
- Signs of cardiac arrest
- Swelling or irritation at the injection site
- Anaphylactic shock
Some cats will have an allergic reaction to anesthesia, while others will not. Unfortunately, there are no known causes of allergies. Allergy tests can be conducted to determine if your cat reacts to any common allergens, however, anesthesia is not one of the allergens included in testing. Cat owners do not become aware of their cat’s anesthesia allergy until the cat has already had a reaction.
Diagnosis of Anesthesia Allergies in CatsIf your cat has a surgery scheduled in the near future, you will most likely have to bring him in for pre-op testing to ensure he is healthy enough to undergo surgery. You may be wondering why an allergic reaction can still occur during the procedure if your cat has been thoroughly pre-tested. This is because there’s no way for a vet to test for an anesthesia allergy.
Prior to a surgery, you should let your vet know whether your cat has any known allergies and if he has ever had any bad reactions to medications in the past. If your cat has been given anesthesia before and had a negative reaction to it, your vet needs to know this before the procedure is performed.
Once a local or general anesthesia has been administered to your cat, the vet should immediately be able to diagnose an allergic reaction based on the observable symptoms. Make sure you ask your vet for the exact name of the anesthesia that was used so you know to avoid this type moving forward.
Treatment of Anesthesia Allergies in Cats
Luckily, anesthesia allergic reactions occur immediately, so your cat will already be in the presence of a veterinarian when the symptoms begin. The treatment will depend on the severity of the reaction. If it’s just mild skin irritation, the vet may not administer any medication unless the condition worsens. Moderate allergic reactions can be treated with antihistamines, which can be given orally or intravenously. If the cat is under sedation from generation anesthesia, the antihistamine will be given through an IV, however, if the cat is awake and reacted to local anesthesia, the medication may be given orally.
Serious reactions will need other forms of treatment. The vet may administer epinephrine through an auto-injector device such as an Epi-Pen. Epinephrine will immediately enter the cat’s system and begin to alleviate the symptoms associated with an allergic reaction. If your cat’s airways begin to swell because of the allergic reaction, he may be unable to breathe. The vet will need to closely monitor his airways during an allergic reaction, and if swelling is spotted, emergency surgery may be needed to open the airways.
https://wagwalking.com/cat/condition/anesthesia-allergies
Maternal Antibodies and Vaccines
Our kittens leave us with their first core vaccine. The point of the 3 series kitten vaccines is in hope to find the right time when the Maternal Antibodies wear off on kittens. Maine Coon kittens nurse much longer than a regular kitten. I use to vaccinate starting at a younger age. I have noticed by doing this their immune system was not ready. Kittens are being over vaccinated just in hopes to find the right time. Maine Coons do best with the first core vaccine if I wait till 8-10 weeks old or even older.
Maternally Derived Antibodies (MDA)
For both breeders and pet owners who purchase a kitten, one of the first issues to be decided are the kitten series vaccinations. What ones, when and why. By far, the most common reason for vaccines not immunizing is the presence of Maternally Derived Antibodies (MDA - this is a standard abbreviation used by immunologists).
Unlike many other species, kittens receive little if any antibody protection before birth (in utero). The critical time for a kitten is the first 18 to 24 hours after birth. I've heard most suggest the first 18 hours but some suggest 24 hours and recently I heard an immunologist suggest 2-3 days, particularly when blood incompatibility is an issue. During those first hours after birth the kitten's intestines are very porous. When the kitten nurses and consumes the milk that queens produce after birth called colostrum which is full of antibodies, the kitten's intestines allow the large antibody molecules to pass through the intestinal wall and directly into the blood stream. These are the antibodies that will protect the kitten until it's own immune system matures enough to provide immunity. After those first hours after birth the kitten undergoes what is called "gut closure". At that point the intestines are no longer porous and the antibodies can no longer pass through. This also protects the kitten from other disease causing pathogens also passing through the gut into the blood stream. Once a kitten undergoes gut closure, continued nursing will not increase the kitten's amount of antibodies. Any antibodies consumed then will merely pass through the gut and out through the feces. Thus, continued nursing even after the kitten begins to receive vaccinations, will not increase the MDA interference. All depends on those first hours after birth. There are two factors in how much antibody a kitten receives.
1. The amount of antibodies the queen has in her colostrum during those first hours.
2. The amount of colostrum each individual kitten consumes before gut closure Since those two variables are unknown, each kitten in a litter may have a different amount of MDA. Also, there may be different amounts of antibodies for each disease, e.g. Panleukopenia, Herpesvirus, Calicivirus, etc. During the first 2-4 months of life, the MDA will gradually lower, generally by about half every two weeks.
This is a study on Vaccination against Feline Panleukopenia on kittens that still had MDA.
https://bmcvetres.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/1746-6148-8-62?fbclid=IwAR36rUW98r93mwWaXWhBYDGN1HK9_q6D6WpahY2XqtRtXGrE8RUrlli-eNY
This site has a lot of information about over vaccinating cats.
https://catinfo.org/vaccines-for-cats-we-need-to-stop-overvaccinating/
Non Core Vaccines
Please do not vaccinate for FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency Virus – aka “feline AIDS”), FIP (Feline Infectious Peritonitis), bordatella, giardia, or chlamydia.
Keep in mind that if you do decide to vaccinate for FIV (an adjuvanted, and very ineffective, vaccine), your cat will now test ‘positive’ since the FIV test cannot tell the difference between an infected cat and a vaccinated cat.
All of our cats that come to us are tested for FIV/Felv at my vet and are negative.
I suggest to not vaccinate your Maine Coon with non core vaccines in the contract. Any complications that could arise will not be covered in the contract.
