Kitten basics when bringing home your new fur baby!

​Kitten basics when bringing home your new fur baby!

We know how exciting bringing home a new companion is, and we also know that you might have questions or need support along the way. For basic pet care tips, please read below.

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The Basics

Food

Kitten (under 18 months old)

Purina Pro Plan kitten hard food: Chicken & Rice Formula

• I free feed our kittens hard food.  They need the extra calories as they grow a ton the first year.  They slow down around age one but continue to grow until age 4 to 5 years old.  This way they are getting the extra calories they need during those big growth spurts.

Purina Pro Plan kitten wet food: Variety Pack

• I give wet food once a day.
• If you plan to contiue wet food, I would start out with a forth of a can and go from there.
• Every once in a while, I will have a kitten who does not like wet food.  I will let you know if that is the case.

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Adult (18 months old and older)

Purina Pro Plan adult hard food: Sensitive skin & stomach

• I free feed our adults hard food.  They need the extra calories as they continue to grow until age 4 to 5 years old.  This way they are getting the extra calories they need during those big growth spurts.
• Sensitive Skin & Stomach helps with hairballs and coat.
  

Purina Pro Plan adult wet food: Variety Pack

• Adults get one 3oz can of wet food a day.
• If you get a retired cat from me, I will let you know if they like wet food or not.  Most of my cats love it.

Treats

• I feed this to all the cats. 
• They love Royal Canin Maine Coon kitten.
• Freeze dried minnows. I've tried different freeze dried but minnows are their favorite. Freeze dried can be fed to both cats and dogs.

*If you wish to change the brand of food, we recommend that you purchase another nutritious cat food and introduce it gradually by mixing the current food in with the new food. 

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Setting up your kitten's area in your home before pickup day.

It's best to have one area to keep all their food, toys, bedding at first.  As they become more comfortable, they will venture out.  Once they have the run of the house, you can move their items to other areas of the home.

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Water

Provide fresh water in a clean bowl daily. Your cat should have access to the water at all times.

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Litter

I have tried several brands and types of litter.  Clumping clay, non clumping clay, pellets, wood chips, corn, etc.  Our cats have not been picky with any type of clay litter.
Non clay litter, I've had to slowly transition them to it.  I would add both litters and slowly add less clay litter to the mix.
I use Arm and Hammer litter for price and smell.  We have LOTS of cats and this has worked the best for us.

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Litter Box

The first thing I do when I bring in a new kitten or cat, is place them in their litter box so they know where it is.
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Place an appropriately sized, uncovered litter box with approximately 1-2 inches of litter in a quiet but accessible location. If you have a covered litter box, remove the cover for the first week to allow your cat to get used to the new litter box.
The kittens will not be used to a Litter Robot.  In the past I did use them.  On two different occasions a kitten did get underneath.  Thankfully no one was hurt, but I took them away and went back to stainless steel litter boxes.  Kittens have to be 5 lbs or more for the Litter Robot to sensor any cat inside of it.  Our bigger cats did adjust well to one but I highly suggest keeping a regular one next to it to prevent accidents as they learn the automatic litter box.  I know other brands will work at a lower weight.  Either way, sitting a litter box next to one will keep your cat from going in other parts of the house.  Lesson learned when I first used them. LOL.

NOTE: If you plan to use the Robot Litter box, you must use clay clumping litter.  Any brand works. 
I've also owned Popur and Leo's Loo.  Both of these also require clay clumping litter.  Leo's Loo is very small and will not fit your kitten for long.  I like the Popur as it's not covered, holds more, and fits our adult Maine Coons best. 
I am using stainless steel at the moment.  I ruined my Popur by spraying it with water to help get the smell out.  The liner can be sprayed down but the machine part can only be wiped down.  ​

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Take it slow

​Cats can be easily overwhelmed by new spaces, so when you get home, set your cat up in a small quiet room. Keep the door closed. Be sure your cat has access to comfy bedding, hiding spots, toys, food, water, a scratcher, and a litter box. Interact with the cat on their terms.  When the cat is moving around this space confidently, you can begin to slowly introduce them to the rest of your home. Some cats will settle in within a few hours, but most will need a few days or more.

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Harness Training

Dog harnesses fit better on these big cats.  They will outgrow them and I have one male who is too big for a medium dog harness now.  First place the harness on in the house without the leash.  Leave it on for just a little bit, then take it off.  Do this daily and add more time to it.  If they are not bothered by it at all, add the leash onto it and see if they walk with it.  Gradually they will get the idea.  I've had some cats who refused a carrier no matter what but took to the harness right away.  

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Honeymoon Stage

Adopting a new family member is exciting, but there will likely be an adjustment period for both you and your new pet. It’s important to remember that during the transition period, your kitten may display behaviors that were not discussed at the time of adoption. It’s normal and to be expected. It may take time for your new pet to adjust to your routine. Maine Coons are very social and love their people.  Some will act like they have always lived with you, while others will take a few days of adjustment.  Keep interacting with them, give treats, play, etc.

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Scratching Surfaces

Cats have a need to scratch, so be sure to provide plenty of cat-friendly scratching surfaces. Most cats enjoy both horizontal cardboard scratchers and scratching posts. For posts, pick one that is sturdy and tall enough for your cat to get a good stretch.  Make sure the post will not tip easily.  

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Daily Interactive Playtime

Playing with your cat is a great way for you to bond and help them feel less stressed. Cats love chasing, pouncing on, and leaping after wand toys. Keep play interesting by having a couple of different wand toys on daily rotation. When using wand toys, allow your cat to “catch” the toy a few times during play and end playtime with a yummy treat. A good play session can last from 10 to 15 minutes. Always use toys during play, and not your hands or feet. If your cat tries to play with hands or feet, become a statue by folding your arms and looking away and wait a few minutes before giving any more attention. Avoid petting or picking up during or directly after playtime.

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When should I spay/neuter my kitten?

​FEMALES:
When it comes to spaying female kittens, I recommend doing it around 6 months of age. Females can be at risk for pyometra, which is a serious infection in the uterus that can lead to life-threatening situations. There are two types of pyometra: open and closed. With closed pyometra, symptoms may not be visible until it’s too late, often resulting in sudden loss.
This risk increases as your kitten goes into heat. Even having just one heat cycle without being bred can set the stage for this infection. When a female cat goes into heat, her uterus opens, which can allow bacteria to enter. Unfortunately, this makes them susceptible to miscarrying if they are bred. This risk occurs each time they enter heat, with non-breeding females being particularly vulnerable.

My personal experience shows that females can start their heat cycles as early as 4 months, but it's most common for them to start between 10 months and a year old. By spaying early, you not only prevent these health risks but also ensure a healthier life for your female kitten.
If a vet allows it sooner than 6 months old, I'd opt for it.  A lot of vets will not until a kitten is 6 months old.
MALES:
I recommend neutering your male kitten by the time he is 9 months old. While not all male kittens hit puberty by this age, I’ve seen instances where some start spraying as early as this. It's important to note that not every male will spray, but if their father did, there's a higher chance your kitten might follow suit since this behavior can be hereditary. In my experience, I’ve only had two males that never sprayed; Lincoln was my first, and then there was Victor Zsasz, his son. Neither of them sprayed during their time as sires, while the current males I have do spray. Neutering at an earlier age can help prevent unwanted spraying habits from developing before they start. I’d suggest neutering your male kitten by around 9 months.

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When should I take my kitten to their next vet appointment?

​I recommend scheduling an appointment before picking up your new kitten. It's advisable to get them into the system as soon as possible. When you bring them home, it's best to wait about a week before introducing any new vaccines. Transitioning to a new environment can be stressful for kittens, and adding vaccines during this period can increase their risk of illnesses, like colds. Doing things gradually will help ensure your kitten has a positive experience in their new home.

Our kittens leave with their first core vaccine. The three-series kitten vaccination aims to coincide with the time when the maternal antibodies start to diminish. Maine Coon kittens tend to nurse longer than typical kittens, and I’ve learned from experience that starting vaccinations too early can be problematic—sometimes the immune system isn’t quite ready. It’s common to see over-vaccination in kittens as we try to find the right timing. In the case of Maine Coons, the first core vaccine is most effective when given between 8 to 10 weeks of age, or sometimes even a bit later.
Click below to read more about maternal antibodies and vaccines on my blog.

Read more here

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Introducing your kitten to your cat.

​If you’re bringing a new cat into your home, the most important thing is to be patient. The introduction between two cats must be gradual and keep in mind it can take a long time for a relationship to grow. The first impression a new cat makes when they meet your resident cat is critical. If two cats display aggression during their first meeting, this may set the mood for their future relationship.

If your resident cat becomes aggressive when they see other cats outside your home, you’ll probably have a difficult time introducing a new cat into your household. If your cat has lived harmoniously with other cats in the past, the odds are good that they will adjust to a newcomer. Maine Coons as kittens adapt much quicker with other pets in the home.

1.) Keep cats separated
Just before you bring your new cat home, confine your resident cat to one room so the cats are unable to see each other. Do not give your resident cat an opportunity to approach the new cat in their carrier. This can be extremely frightening for the new cat.
Bring your new cat directly into their own quiet room. Be sure the door to this room stays closed. This will allow the two cats to smell and hear—but not see or touch—each other. This helps reduce stress by not overwhelming either cat with too much change too quickly.
Each cat should have essential items within their respective spaces: food, water bowl, litter box, scratching post, and places to hide (cardboard boxes make for easy and inexpensive hiding spots). Do your best to avoid changing your resident cat’s environment and routine as much as possible: keep the same feeding schedule, avoid moving resources such as litter boxes or scratching posts, and give them plenty of your attention.

During this period of separation, teach the cats to associate each other’s scent with positive experiences:

• Feed the cats treats near the door that separates them so they learn that coming together (even though they can’t see each other) results in a pleasant experience. 
• Offer each cat something that smells like the other cat, such as bedding or a towel rubbed on each cat’s head and cheeks. Place a treat on the bed or towel to help the cats make a positive association with the other cat’s smell.
• Play with each of the cats near the door. Encourage them to paw at toys under the door. Eventually, the cats may play “paws” under the door with each other.
• If your resident cat is not showing signs of stress and your new cat is
  exploring confidently, eating well, and using the litter box, switch the cats’ locations so they can investigate each other’s smell. This also allows your new cat to explore a different section of your home.
  
  

2.) Let the cats see each other.

• Only move onto this step if there are no signs of aggression (hissing, growling), both cats are eating well, using their litter box, and otherwise not showing any signs of illness or stress. Remember to take it slow! You are helping the cats to build a relationship that will continue to develop over time; there is no need to rush them--different cats go at different paces.
• Before you start, decide if you will use a baby gate for this step or just crack the door open slightly. Your goal is to allow the cats to see each other, but not interact. If you use a gate, be sure it is securely in place before opening the door. Use this method with caution because a cat can easily jump over even a tall gate.
• If possible, have a friend or family member help, where one cat and one person are on each side of the door. Give each cat a play session followed by a meal before you start.
• Allow the cats to see each other. When either cat notices the other, offer that cat a tasty treat or play with a favorite toy. Do not force the cats to come closer to one another. It is important that the introduction goes at their pace.
• Avoid petting or holding either cat during these sessions. Being petted or handled can inadvertently cause stress and they could accidentally scratch you.
• Let the cats see each other for just a few minutes and end each session while both cats are still relaxed. Continue to keep the cats fully separated between these sessions.
• Over the next few days, continue to feed meals, offer treats, and play with the cats near the barrier. Gradually lengthen the amount of time the cats see each other.
  
  

3.) Let the cats spend time together.

• Hold off on this step until the cats are completely relaxed during step 2 and show no signs of conflict or aggression. Supervise these initial face-to-face interactions carefully and keep the interactions short at first.
• It is a good idea to play with each cat while they can see each other behind the barrier, feed them a meal, and then remove the barrier. This is so that both cats are feeling calm when they spend time together.
• Start with just a few minutes at a time, gradually increasing the time they spend together over several sessions. Carefully observe both cats for signs of stress and do not force them to approach each other.
• As the cats become more comfortable with each other, allow them longer and longer periods together.
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Additional tips for keeping the peace in a multi-cat house hold.

• Your cats will be more likely to get along if they’re happy in their environment. Look at the layout of your home. Make sure there are always plenty of hiding spots for your cats. Some like to sit up high, on shelves or perches, while others tend to hide under and behind things, so make sure you provide hiding spots at floor level as well.

• Offer at least the same number of litter boxes as there are cats, but ideally one more (so if you have three cats, offer them all access to at least three litter boxes, but four is better). The litter boxes should be located in different areas of the home instead of side by side.

• Offer multiple scratching posts, resting/hiding spots, water bowls, feeding stations, and perches in different locations. When cats compete for resources, it can increase the potential for conflict.
• Food, water, and litter boxes must be placed out in the open so your cats don’t feel trapped or vulnerable when they access these resources.
• In addition to a well-designed home environment with plenty of access to resources,consider using a pheromone therapy called Feliway Multi-Cat. Available as a diffuser, this product is a copy of the feline appeasing pheromone mother cats produce during lactation and can provide a calming effect among the cats in your home.
• Catnip is also another calming remedy.
• If you’re bringing a new cat into a household with multiple cats, introduce each resident cat to the newcomer individually. After each of your cats has met the new cat one-on-one and absent any signs of stress or aggression, you can start to allow all the cats to mingle as a group.

• When returning from a vet visit, even if just one of your cats went to the vet, it is always a good idea to keep the cats in separate rooms for at least a day. Smell is key form of communication for cats and the smell of the vet’s office can be interpreted as threatening

If you have a dog, the same steps would apply when introducing your dog to your new kitten.
As always I'm here if you have any questions.  You can email, text or call. I love getting updates of the kittens and watching them grow up!

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