​Maine Coon Cat Care

​Maine Coon Cat Care…

When bringing a kitten into your home, it’s best to make sure you’re prepared. That will help create a smooth transition that is less stressful for your new cat. Here is a rundown of supplies you’ll need to prepare in advance. We think you’ll find that when you’re prepared, you’ll have more time left to bond.
When hitting the road, you’ll need to transport your kitten in a carrier. This will keep her safe and provide a sense of security. Traveling can be scary for a kitten, so make sure the carrier is roomy and well-ventilated. Try lining the bottom with a towel from her former home or shelter to comfort her with a familiar scent. And make sure your carrier is secure and easy to clean.

---

​FOOD AND WATER BOWLS
Your kitten has lots of energy, so select bowls that won’t tip over too easily. Some kittens are allergic to plastic, so opt for a different material like easy-to-clean stainless steel. You’ll want to wash her food and water bowls daily to keep things fresh. Plenty of clean, fresh water on hand is key for a kitten too.  For food I use stainless steal bowls and SafePet dispenser.  I use stainless steel water fountains and Neater Feeders for water.

---

We feed our kittens Purina Pro Kitten Chicken and Rice kitten food.  If you plan to switch foods we recommend switching to a new food gradually over the course of 7-10 days. For example, make a mixture that contains 25% of the new food and 75% of the old food and feed that for three days. Then make it 50-50 for three more days, then 75% new food and 25% old food for three more days. If your pet seems comfortable with this progression, you can start feeding 100% new food.  Maine Coons are slow growing cats and will need to stay on kitten food till age 18 months to 2 years old.  Maine Coon kittens should stay on kitten food till 18 months old.
​

---

LITTER BOX
Make sure the box is roomy to prevent scattering litter around the house. You’ll also need to buy cat litter and a scoop or strainer to remove soiled bits. A clean litter box is key because your kitten will avoid using a messy, smelly one. Wash her pan once a week with soap and water. It is best not to use strong disinfectants (containing ammonia); they aren’t necessary and may offend your kitten’s sensitive nose. Use a mild disinfectant such as bleach and water on the litter box about once a month, putting the box outdoors to dry in the fresh air, if possible. Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling.

IMPORTANT: Humans may contract an organism called toxoplasma from cat feces while cleaning out the litter box. Wear gloves while changing your kitten’s litter and always wash your hands afterwards. Pregnant women should be especially cautious and consider asking another family member to clean the litter box. This is because toxoplasmosis can cause severe birth defects. We recommend that a non-pregnant family member clean and change the litter box.

---

BED
Most kittens like to have their own place to rest, but don’t be disappointed if she chooses to ignore her new bed. Until you see what your kitten’s preferences are, you may not want to spend a lot of money on a fancy wicker basket or plush bed. Begin with a simple, cardboard “bed.” Get a roomy cardboard box with sides high enough to keep out drafts. Cut out a doorway. Line the box with an old cushion and cover with soft, washable material for warmth. If possible, use an old sweatshirt for a lining. Your scent will be comforting and encourage her to use her new space. Cats are very particular, so make sure the bedding is always clean. Place the bed in a quiet, draft-free corner away from the main traffic in your house. This will be your kitten’s corner.

---

​SCRATCHING POST
Contrary to popular belief, cats do not use a scratching post to sharpen their claws. They use it for exercise (to stretch out to their full length), to clean away dead scales from their nails, and to mark their territory, both visually and with their scent. Get a scratching post right away to help train your kitten early. The scratching post should be sturdy and tall enough to let your kitten stretch out, full length. Train your kitten to use the scratching post as soon as she comes home. Encourage her to use her post by playing with her often, near or around it. She’ll get the idea quickly. Then when she gets the urge to stretch, hopefully she’ll use the post instead of your furniture. Try to place your kitten’s bed and scratching post close together so she learns to use it when she first wakes up and needs a stretch.

---

COLLAR, HARNESS, & LEASH
A cat harness or leash can be a great training tool for your kitten, though they’re not a must. If you’re already thinking along these lines, a harness is probably best, as kittens often dislike the feeling of a leash. However, make sure your kitten always wears a collar made of lightweight material and an identification tag. Have her wear one early on, to get her used to the sensation.
​

---

GROOMING TOOLS
Grooming helps keep your kitten healthy and beautiful. You’ll need both a flea comb and a brush, though the type of brush you use depends on the texture and length of your kitten’s coat. Ask your veterinarian or groomer to recommend one that’s right for you.

---

​TOYS
A kitten is naturally curious and needs toys that are safe and fun to play with. Choose toys made especially for cats—ones that cannot be splintered, torn apart or swallowed.  A celluloid ball that rattles, a catnip mouse or a hard rubber mouse is perfect. To avoid accidents, some cat toys should be used only when you are playing with your kitten.
Toys don’t need to be store bought. Use your imagination. Some great play-things include:

• Table tennis ball
• Empty wooden thread spool
• Unshelled walnut
• Balled-up waxed paper
• Cardboard toilet paper tube
• Empty shoe box

Some items you may be tempted to give your kitten could be harmful. Keep the following away from your kitten:

• Balls of string
• Spools of thread
• Rubber bands
• Balls of aluminum foil or cellophane
• Corks
• Wire twist ties

Also avoid anything with hard sharp points that can break off. Be wary of toys (or items that a kitten may see as a toy) that can break, such as Christmas tree ornaments for example. Be careful not to give her anything small enough to swallow, like buttons, beads or paper clips. Keep your kitten away from children’s toys made of soft rubber, fur, wool, sponge or polyurethane. If your kitten swallows even a small particle, it could cause digestive problems. Avoid all toys with squeakers that could be swallowed.
We hope this list helped prepare you to make your home a happy place for your cat.
When you first bring your kitten home for the first few hours, keep your kitten company in one room. Let them get used to you and their new surroundings. Kittens, like all animals, need a bit of time to adjust. They may be shy at first, and it will take a few weeks for them to feel totally comfortable.
If there are other animals in the home, place them in another room during this time period to give the new one a chance to explore their surroundings. Then introduce your other pets slowly.
Spend as much time as possible caring for your new kitten, and they’ll begin to feel right at home before you know it.

---

Quarantine *this is very important to do*
Every kitten that enters your home should be given a quarantine period of a minimum of 14 days. Especially if you have other animals.  If you get two kittens from the same place they can be together during quarantine.  If you have two kittens from two different places they will need to be separate from each other.  During this time, your kittens should be confined to a small area that is easy to disinfect, warm and given regular interaction. A spare bedroom or bathroom works perfectly for quarantining kittens.  You want to make sure they have their own litter box, food, water, and toys.  When my kittens leave us I make sure they are healthy before leaving.  Stress can bring on colds.  Does not mean your kitten will get one when leaving us.  This just ensures if it did happen, you are not exposing it to other cats.  When I bring any new cat or kitten into my home,  I do this as well.  I also take them into the vet to be checked along with a stool sample.  Once it's cleared and the kitten has not shown any signs of a cold then I will allow them to be around my other cats.

MAINE COON BREED HEALTH INFORMATION

It is essential to use a Vet that is familiar with this breed. The majority of MC kittens will experience juvenile gingivitis while teething. This breed loses all baby teeth. It takes about 6 months for the adult teeth to grow in. It varies from kitten to kitten on how much swelling of the gums they experience during this process which occurs from 5 months to a year of age. Many Vets misdiagnose this as stomates or other mouth diseases and recommend pulling teeth. Do Not let them pull any teeth. Find another vet. Always get a second opinion, just like you would for your own health.
Also, some MC kittens have an enzyme in their mouth that makes the gums try to grow over the teeth as the body is rejecting the teeth. Do Not pull any teeth. The proper treatment is giving the kitten/cat Prednisone for inflammation for several weeks. In severe cases, surgery is required to remove some of the excess growth. Then give prednisone and an antibiotic. Surprisingly, the excess growth normally does not grow back. It is very unlikely that a MC kitten or young adult cat will have any kind of permanent mouth diseases that would require pulling teeth. Remember, MC Cats grow until 4 to 5 years of age, so they are just a big kitten at 1 year old.
​
Everything about MC Cats is large compared to other cat breeds. Head, Feet, Boning, Internal organs such as Heart and loud Heartbeat. Vets unfamiliar with the MC breed will misdiagnose murmurs. Some MC kittens will experience a juvenile murmur as the kittens grow extremely fast. If they have a murmur at all, they usually outgrow it within 6 months. A murmur is an entirely different issue from HCM which is enlargement of the heart and can be fatal. All Wildcat Creek breeders have been DNA tested for HCM and are negative for the disease. Murmurs come in 6 grades. Any murmurs Grades (1-3) are considered minor and will normally be outgrown and should not be a concern. Grades (4-6) murmurs are major murmurs and will negatively impact the kitten’s life. Wildcat Creek kittens are examined at their vet appointment for murmurs. If they have any grade minor murmur buyer will be informed, it will be noted on their health records. Any kitten with a major murmur is not sold. Normally, MC kittens/cats do not just suddenly develop a murmur. If they do not have a murmur at 3 months of age it is extremely unlikely, they will develop one, especially during the first year of growth. If your kitten is diagnosed with a murmur, get a second opinion or find a Vet familiar with this breed. The kitten did not have a murmur when you took it home.